the board, it
would be hard
to find someone
who doesn’t like
a freshly cooked
zeppola or doughnut.
When people crave fried
dough, they generally head
to a high-volume store, but
there are plenty of restaurants out
there offering this popular treat.
“We don’t want to
build a lot of gluten
flour has gluten,
so that gives the
dough and doughnut
structure,” he explains.
“The potato flour gives
the cooked doughnut a
crunchiness and lightness,
without being dense.” He also
wants richness, achieved by using
egg yolks rather than whole eggs.
“Doughnuts fit into a restaurant’s repertoire well, because
restaurants tend to plate their food nicely, elaborately,
elegantly and aesthetically,” says Megan Kaminski, executive
pastry chef at Kelly Liken in Vail, Colo. “Instead of just
serving a plain doughnut, restaurants tend to plate their
doughnuts in exciting ways with different accompaniments
that complement the doughnut’s flavor and texture.”
There’s also a difference in taste when comparing a
restaurant’s version of freshly fried dough to that sold at
Husband’s dough is yeast-based. While it’s common
practice to dissolve yeast in warm water and let it stand for
10 minutes until creamy and bubbly, he uses ice water to
slow down activation of the yeast and the development of
gluten. “I want to keep the temperature of the dough low,
with a target of 78°F-80°F,” he says. With warm water, the
temperature of the dough would immediately surpass the
desired temperature, and the dough would continue to rise
during the one-hour rest period.
PHOTO CREDIT: Idaho Potato Commission
“I’m convinced the general public does not know what a
fresh doughnut tastes like, unless they’re making them
at home, and that’s few and far between,” says Andy
Husbands, chef/owner of Tremont 647 and Sister Sorel,
Boston. “There’s a big difference between a doughnut that’s
sitting on a shelf and one that’s right out of the fryer.”
Husbands prepares potato doughnuts fritter-style. Fritters,
made with corn or crab, for example, tend to be dense. But
he’s going for a lighter version, and uses two-thirds bread
flour to one-third Idaho potato flour.
A zeppola, or St. Joseph’s Day cake, is a lightweight, deep-fried dough ball rolled in granulated sugar or stuffed with a
filling. Zeppole are on the menu at Chicago’s 312 Chicago,
where Luca Corazzina is executive chef.
“Fried dough products need to be cooked to order. They
should not be made in advance in batches and allowed to sit
around,” Corazzina says. “They also need to be stuffed right
away and served immediately. This is the only way to taste
the consistency and tenderness of the doughnut.”
OPPOSITE: Andy Husbands’ potato doughnuts are light and crunchy, thanks to the
use of potato flour.