National Culinary Review

Deconstructed Pecan Pie with Maple/Bourbon Parfait, Pecan Brittle Crunch, Chocolate Paint, Vanilla Cotton Candy and Applewood-Smoked Bacon Gelato

William Muzio, Executive Chef
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Oakdale, N.Y.

Yield: 5 servings
buttered surface. Do not spread. Allow
to cool slightly. Stretch and pull until very
thin. When cool and hardened, break into
small pieces. Store in airtight container. To
use, place some pieces in Robot Coupe;
chop into very small pieces.

the restaurant’s 18th-century American history,” says Diana Wolkow, pastry chef. “Ingredients include raw pecan pieces, miniature semisweet chocolate chips, and rum to hold together the sweet and gooey custard filling.”

Chocolate Paint ½ cup 66% bittersweet chocolate ½ cup heavy cream

Method: Melt chocolate with cream over double boiler, stirring often. When mixture is combined, remove from heat. Keep warm.

Applewood-Smoked Bacon Gelato
10 oz. chopped bacon
2 cups milk
1 cup heavy cream
4 egg yolks
½ cup sugar
Pinch of salt

Wolkow prefers to make smaller, individual pecan pies because a better crust-to-filling ratio is achieved. “If pie is made in individual portions—versus a large pie served in slices, which gives you the feeling of being in a diner—it is appropriate for a fine-dining establishment and can make a guest feel like he or she is getting a truly unique, special dessert.”

Maple/Bourbon Parfait
½ cup milk
1¼ cups heavy cream, divided
½ cup sugar
½ t. vanilla extract
1 oz. bourbon
2 egg yolks
2 oz. maple syrup
1½ sheets gelatin

THE CRUST MAKES THE PIE “Just because a pie is a pie doesn’t mean it’s a low-class dessert,” says Tiffany Layco, executive chef for Library Bistro at the Alexis Hotel, Seattle. “The right pie is the right pie, no matter where it’s served. You can certainly fancy it up, alter them a bit—make turnovers or crostatas—but the essence is still a pie.”

Method: Heat milk, ½ cup cream, sugar and vanilla until mixture comes to a boil. Cook out alcohol in bourbon. Whisk egg yolks and maple syrup. Bloom gelatin in water. Whip remaining cream into soft peaks. When cream mixture comes to a boil, add bloomed gelatin. Temper to egg yolk mixture. Add bourbon. Slowly fold in whipped cream. Strain mixture through fine-mesh sieve. Put mixture in prepared molds (4-oz., such as pyramid shapes). Put in freezer to set at least 12 hours.

1) Render chopped bacon on medium-low flame. Drain bacon fat; cool. 2) In medium saucepan, mix milk and cream; warm until foam forms around edges. Remove from heat. 3) In large bowl, beat egg yolks and sugar until frothy. Gradually pour warm milk into egg yolks, whisking constantly. Return mixture to saucepan; cook over medium heat, stirring with wooden spoon, until mixture gels slightly and coats back of spoon. (If small egg lumps begin to form, remove from heat immediately.) Fold in chilled bacon fat and pinch of salt. Pour mixture through sieve or fine strainer into bowl. Cover; chill for several hours. 4) Pour mixture into ice cream maker; freeze according to manufacturer’s instructions. Transfer to sealed container; freeze until firm. If too firm, place in refrigerator before serving.

Vanilla Cotton Candy
5 vanilla beans
3 cups sugar

Layco menus a personal-serving apple crostata about 6 inches across spiced with cinnamon and allspice and served with vanilla ice cream and caramel sauce (with 5 oz. fruit/5 oz. dough, it sells for $8). Granny Smith apples are used because they are naturally tart, firm and hold up well in baking.

Pecan Brittle Crunch
1 cup sugar
½ cup light corn syrup
¼ cup hot water
½ T. butter
1 cup pecans
½ t. vanilla extract
1 t. baking soda

Method: Split vanilla beans; place in sugar. Mix. Following manufacturer’s guide for cotton candy machine, add vanilla/sugar mixture to make vanilla cotton candy.

“My apple crostata has a crust I’m very proud of. I make sure it’s buttery and flaky,” Layco says. “It has a bit of a savory

Method: Cook sugar, syrup and hot water until mixture thickens and bubbles (about 230°F). Add butter and pecans. Stir continuously; continue cooking until nuts begin to brown and start popping (290°F). Remove from heat. Add vanilla and baking soda; stir thoroughly. Pour quickly in several pieces on large

Assembly

Per serving: Dip small paint brush in chocolate paint. Paint one stroke across center of plate. Place one mold maple/ bourbon parfait upside-down in center of plate. Add pecan brittle crunch over chocolate paint. Add one scoop applewood-smoked bacon gelato to plate. Top off with stick of vanilla cotton candy.