up in the strudel dough, formed into portions and gently poached in
salted water. When served, the poached semolina strudel is topped
with brösel (toasted buttered breadcrumbs) and accompanied by
a plum compote.
Poaching is also used for the Bavarian-style strudel filled
with apples and dried currants, almonds, cinnamon and brandy.
However, unlike the Austrian semolina strudel, Bavarian strudel
is oven-poached with milk that evaporates and is absorbed by the
strudel during cooking.
The traditional Viennese apple strudel is made with slightly
tart baking apples, which are known as strudlers in Austria.
Thinly sliced apples are first tossed with sugar, cinnamon, rum
or brandy, and raisins, and left to sit to draw out the juice. Then,
the apples are tossed with brösel or cake crumbs, and sometimes
nuts such as walnuts or almonds, before being rolled up in the
paper-thin dough and baked.
A variation on apple strudel comes from Mairinger, who adds
grapes instead of raisins to create a more dynamic fruit profile.
He prepares many other types of signature sweet strudels, such
as a poppy seed strudel with a brioche-like dough. This dough
helps the filling and crust be more compact, and prevents the
strudel from falling apart. Pear/walnut strudel with red wine
sorbet and chocolate cherry with a white chocolate ice cream are
also customer favorites.
Traditionally, apple strudel is served by itself or with vanilla
sauce or ice cream. Yet many chefs are stretching the limits
with more eclectic presentations. This is the case at Bohemian
House, where Sidor presents apple strudel with farmer cheese
crémeux, Praga dark beer-soaked raisins, smoked demerara
sugar and creme fraiche ice cream. This strudel also differs from
the classic apple strudel by rolling the puff pastry in a walnut
streusel before baking.
DANIEL PLISKA, CEC, AAC, IS EXECU TIVE CHEF AT THE UNIVERSIT Y CLUB OF MU, COLUMBIA,
MISSOURI, AND AUTHOR OF DESSERT & PAS TRY TECHNIQUES (AMERICAN TECHNICAL
PUBLISHERS, 2014). HE WRITES THE BLOG CHEFPLISKA. WORDPRESS.COM.
Ham, Swiss Cheese and Cabbage Strudel
Daniel Pliska, CEC, AAC, Executive Chef
University Club of MU
Yield: 6 (16-inch) strudels
2 cups leeks, white root only, julienne
1 qt. green cabbage, julienne
½ cup butter, melted
1 qt. bechamel sauce (recipe follows)
1 lb. ham, julienne
2 lbs. Swiss cheese, grated
1 gallon baby spinach leaves
½ cup olive oil
Salt and pepper, to taste
6 sheets ( 16½ inch x 12 inch) puff pastry
2 eggs + 2 yolks mixed with a little water for egg wash
Poppy seeds, to garnish (optional)
1. Saute leeks and cabbage in butter until tender. Mix in
bechamel sauce and ham; let cool. Add Swiss cheese.
2. Saute spinach in olive oil; season with salt and pepper. Drain
3. Divide puff pastry into six bottoms and six tops. Cut slits in
top pieces; fold in thirds.
4. Trim baguettes to remove crusts. Cut into 6 (½ inch-thick)
planks. Brush with butter; bake until dry.
5. To build strudel: On parchment paper-lined sheet pans, lay
bottom pieces of puff pastry; top each with baguette plank.
Top each base with cooked spinach, followed by thick layer of
ham/Swiss cheese/cabbage mixture. Cover each strudel with
unfolded puff pastry top; crimp, egg-wash. Garnish tops with
poppy seeds, if desired.
6. Refrigerate at least 30 minutes to chill and allow dough to
relax. Bake at 375°F until golden-brown and cooked through.
Remove from oven; allow to rest. Slice; serve warm.
¼ cup minced onion
¼ lb. butter, melted
¾ cup flour
1 qt. hot milk
2 t. fresh thyme leaves
1 bay leaf
Pinch each nutmeg and white pepper + salt, to taste
Method: Saute onion in butter until tender. Add flour; make
blond roux. Slowly whisk in milk until incorporated; reduce heat
to low. Add thyme leaves, bay leaf, nutmeg, white pepper and
salt; simmer for 20 minutes, stirring frequently. Strain.
OPPOSITE: Martin Heuser’s traditional Austrian apple strudel.
ABOVE: Ham, Swiss cheese and cabbage strudel from Daniel Pliska.