BULGUR
“When it comes to flavor, bulgur is one of the most versatile
ingredients you can use,” says Sortun.
Bulgur is available in coarse and fine varieties. To use it most
effectively, understand the uses for both. Sortun often combines
the coarse variety, with its sweet, nutty taste, with other grains to
produce a variety of pilafs. She uses fine bulgur to replace white
flour in dishes such as red-lentil sliders. She makes vegetable
burgers with apple, red lentil, cabbage and Turkish spices.
Another dish using fine bulgur is a tomato dolma that is served
over kisir, a tomato/red pepper tabbouleh. Fine bulgur thickens a
gazpacho-like base.
“With a stronger profile than white rice, but not stronger than
brown rice, bulgur picks up the flavor of what it’s paired with,”
Neff says. “In tabbouleh, for example, it’s a vessel for the olive
oil, mint and tomatoes.”
He has nearly a dozen recipes for coarse bulgur in his
repertoire. They range from bulgur, feta cheese and chickpea
salad to bulgur and braised spinach, and from bulgur, mango
and almond cereal to bulgur pilaf with asparagus and sundried
tomatoes. “Bulgur is on the menu once a week in our accounts,”
he says. “It is well-received.”
Cornell University students like bulgur, too. Evans uses it to
enhance the mix of grains he serves and to increase the nutrition
level of his dishes. “Bulgur breaks up the use of rice and pasta
and adds fiber to students’ diets,” he says.
He likes to serve it hot, with fresh spices and vegetables such
as corn and red pepper. He puts it on the menu when he serves
bulgogi beef with ginger and orange. Sometimes, he combines it
with eggs to make a scrapple-like dish.
SUZANNE HALL HAS BEEN WRITING ABOU T CHEFS, RES TAURAN TS, FOOD AND WINE FROM
HER HOME IN SODDY DAISY, TENN., FOR MORE THAN 25 YEARS.