National Culinary Review

he most important thing to consider with any pastry is that your product will only be as good as the quality of the ingredients you use. This is especially true with fruit, because it’s such a delicate, fresh ingredient.

“I;can’t;believe;how;often;I;see;‘fresh’;strawberries;out;of;season,;bright-white with;no;flavor;and;yet;costing;a;fortune,;added;to;a;pastry;without;any;real;thought behind;it,”;says;Scott;Green,;pastry;chef;instructor;at;The;French;Pastry;School,;Chicago.

The;challenge;of;using;fruit;is;that;it;varies;day;to;day;and;throughout;the;year.;You;have;to;be able;to;adapt;to;the;nuances;of;each;piece;and;understand;what;each;variety;brings;to;the;profile;of a;pastry;beyond;its;initial;flavor.

T
Pastry Substitution
ADD TEXTURE & TEMPERATURE

The;best;way;to;impress;guests;with;a;fruit;pastry;is;to;give;them;something;unexpected.;Altering the;texture;and;presentation;of;the;fruit;is;a;great;way;to;keep;them;engaged.

“Not;all;chefs;are;fans;of;molecular;gastronomy,;because;the;techniques;and;experience;of;a
dish;can;overshadow;the;quality;of;flavor;and;balance,;which;should;always;be;top;priority,”;says
Green. “However, many techniques in the molecular gastronomy repertoire can be used to create
great;components;to;a;pastry.”
Compress;fresh;banana;in;a;vacuum;to;create;a;dense,;creamy;texture,;almost;like;cooked;custard
but;with;bright;notes;of;fresh;banana.;Flash-freeze;raspberries;in;liquid;nitrogen;and;separate;the
pips;of;each;berry;to;create;a;unique;texture;and;temperature;for;a;plated;dessert.;Use;agar;or;alginate
to;semi-permanently;gel;a;fruit;juice;or;puree;into;a;sphere;to;add;a;great;play;on;texture.

When;working;with;bright;fruits;and;fruits;high;in;acidity,;such;as;strawberries,;kiwi;and raspberries, apply as little heat as possible to the fruit when working with it. “Heat kills the acidity and;many;of;the;enzymes;that;create;the;great;flavor;balance;in;fresh;fruit,;and;concentrates;the fruit’s;natural;sugar,;which;can;give;it;a;syrupy;sweetness,”;says;Green.

EVERYONE LOVES a great slice of pie or a fruit tart, but there are many innovative ways to use fruit in a dessert that do not rely on a pastry or cake element. Hector Lopez, executive chef at The Grateful Palate, Fort Lauderdale, Fla., says, “You just need to be sure to add various textures and components, so that each bite is a great sensation.” Lopez’ The Indulgence includes several layers of fruit, including mango, coconut and passion fruit. Each fruit provides a special taste, yet, combined, they work to give the palate a truly unique sensation. “Layering fruits and creating various textures with the fruits gives an element of uniqueness to the dessert and creates a more complex flavor combination,” he says.

LAYER FLAVORS

Don’t;just;add;fruit;to;a;pastry,;bake;it;off,;and;then;expect;it;to;have;an;abundance;of;flavor. Instead,;add;flavor;to;the;fruit;before;baking;to;build;layers;of;flavor;throughout;the;dessert.

For;an;apple;dessert,;saute;the;apples;with;apple;cider;and;apple;cider;vinegar.;When;the;dessert is served, accompany it with a savory sabayon made with apple-based calvados or apple cider.

When;Patti;Dellamonica-Bauler,;executive;pastry;chef;for;Lark;Creek;Walnut;Creek,;San;Francisco, makes a cherry-based dessert, she cooks the cherries on pick-up. A cherry braising liquid is kept on the line, and cherries are cooked to order when the dessert, such as a napoleon, is ordered.

“Cooking;on;pick-up;makes;the;cherries;taste;extremely;fresh;and;taste;like;a;cherry,” Dellamonica-Bauler says. “Anytime you can reinforce the fruit itself with the essence of itself, you’ll;add;another;level;of;complexity;to;the;dessert.”

A layer of mango sorbet is first piped into a 3 inch x 2 inch ring mold. Then, coconut ice cream is added until the mold is half full, and placed in the freezer until set. Next, a passion fruit curd is made by reducing orange juice, passion fruit with seeds, water and sugar. When the curd is cool, the ring mold is removed from the freezer and 1 tablespoon of the curd is added. The ring is topped off with meringue to the level of the mold, and the mold is returned to the freezer. When ordered, the server flames the meringue, removes the mold and presents the dessert to the guest.

REINTERPRET THE TART

One;way;to;create;popularity;around;desserts;is;to;use;fruits;that;are;native;to;your;region. Southern;Louisiana;has;an;abundance;of;citrus,;with;the;citrus;industry;in;Plaquemines;Parish growing;some;of;the;finest;quality;fruit;in;the;nation.;Satsumas,;navel;and;Louisiana;sweet oranges, kumquats, grapefruit and other citrus are available year-round.