my;flavors;on;food;and;create;what;are;essentially;liquid;spice
blends;to;use;at;the;bar,”;he;says.
His Moroccan Bitters captures the essence of that country’s
cuisine. The Memphis Barbecue is prepared with the seasonings
that;York;likes;in;the;sauce.;Jamaican;Jerk;is;an;expression;of
Caribbean cooking that works well in rum-based drinks. The
Curry and Thai versions pair up nicely with gin.
York;does;not;use;sugar;or;salt,;ever,;in;any;of;his;recipes,
but;all;have;a;touch;of;fiery;bite.;“The;purpose;of;bitters;is;to
stimulate the taste receptors in the mouth. Most formulations do
that;with;a;bittering;agent,”;he;says.;“We;use;heat,;instead.;It’s
a;different;path;to;the;same;result.”;As;with;all;bitters,;a;very
small;amount;goes;a;long;way.;York;estimates;that;a;2;oz.;bottle
is;sufficient;for;200;cocktails.
Experimentation;is;key;to;learning;how;to;work;with;The
Bitter;End’s;unusual;formulations.;“You;need;an;open,;curious
mind,”;notes;York,;“and;customers;willing;to;try;something;new.”
Clockwise from top left: 1) A selection of bitters at H&F Bottle Shop, Atlanta. 2)
Orange oil ignited over a daiquiri. 3) Bittercube Bolivar Bitters and a French '75.
COCKTAIL CRAFT
When;PX,;an;elegant;speakeasy-style;lounge;that;celebrates
the;golden;age;of;mixed;drinks,;opened;in;Alexandria,;Va.,;seven
years ago, Todd Thrasher had no choice but to formulate his own
bitters. “Angostura was readily available, and sometimes, if I
was;lucky,;I;could;find;a;bottle;of;Peychaud’s.;Now,;I;generally
have;15-16;different;housemade;bitters;on;hand,”;he;says.
Thrasher sources many ingredients locally, and when working
with rhubarb, cherries and other seasonal fruits, he produces
large quantities that will last through the year. He uses only fresh
herbs, many from his own garden. His preferred bittering agent
is burnt sugar, though he will also turn to quinine or gentian for
some applications.
“A;batch;of;my;bitters;takes;60-90;minutes;to;mix;up,;21;days
to;macerate,;and;then;I;strain;it;four;times—through;a;chinois,
a;gold-mesh;coffee;filter,;then;a;paper;coffee;filter;and,;finally,
through;a;polyester;napkin;to;remove;the;last;bits;of;sediment.”
The leftover mash is dried and ground into a powder that
garnishes;drinks.;“Guests;know;what;we;do,;and;they;definitely
appreciate;the;effort,”;Thrasher;says.
