Top to bottom: 1) A California avocado torta from Chris Mortenson is black bean puree,
baby arugula, heirloom tomato, avocado, queso fresco and chipotle mayonnaise on a
crunchy ciabatta roll. 2) Edamame salad is on the menu at George Formaro’s Zombie
Burger. 3) Black bean, rice and California avocado bolinhos, finished with a squeeze of
lime and paprika salt, is a popular menu item at Luna Red.
To prepare, Behrens puts black beans in a food processor
until pureed. He adds avocado, and processes until incorporated
but;with;visible;pieces.;Next,;he;mixes;rice,;cilantro,;lime;juice,
baking powder, chili paste and a bit of kosher salt. He folds in
the;avocado/black;bean;puree,;then;gently;folds;in;the;garbanzo
bean;flour;until;just;combined.;He;forms;the;mixture;into;1½-inch
balls and fries in hot oil for a minute or two until a dark-purple
crust forms. The bolinhos are served with lime wedges.
Luna;Red;guests;know;that;the;restaurant;has;a;gluten-free
fryer. “So, when we prepare shredded carrot and cumin falafel
balls;bound;by;garbanzo;bean;flour,;people;who;need;to;be;G-F
know;this;won’t;kill;them,”;Behrens;says.;“We;plate;it;with;a;dip-ping sauce. By adding a few greens, it becomes a salad. Add a nice
hazelnut;sauce;and;some;roasted;carrot,;and;it;becomes;an;entree.”
LESS IS MORE
A whole grilled artichoke, cut in half and sprinkled with fresh
herbs,;presented;open-faced;on;the;plate;with;grill;marks;up,;finished
with;lemon;zest;and;a;bit;of;lemon;aioli;on;the;side;is;the;epitome;of
the simple, understated perfection Behrens aims for. “More often than
not,;the;garnish—a;leaf;of;cilantro;or;a;sprig;of;rosemary—would;go
in;the;trash,;and;I;don’t;like;to;throw;a;thing;away.”
Originally;a;California;“total;fish;guy,”;Chris;Mortenson
likes to eat food that’s minimally processed. He worked with
Two;Hot;Tamales;Susan;Feniger;and;Mary;Sue;Milliken;for
more;than;five;years;at;Border;Grill;in;Las;Vegas;before;moving
on;to;work;with;executive;chef;Rene;Ortiz;at;La;Condesa;in;Austin,
Texas.;Mortenson;has;been;back;in;California;since;October;2012,
serving;as;executive;chef;at;La;Condesa;in;St.;Helena.
These days, he’s looking for more vegetarian and vegan recipes
to;add;to;the;already;extensive;menu;of;south-of-the-border
favorites. His California avocado torta is black bean puree, baby
arugula, heirloom tomato, avocado, queso fresco and chipotle
mayonnaise on a crunchy ciabatta roll.
A;staunch;fan;of;“the;deliciousness;of;quinoa,”;Mortenson
recently added chili rellenos with quinoa and manchego cheese to
the;menu.;“Almost;70%;of;the;filling;is;quinoa,”;he;says.;“It’s;a;great
protein with the cheese, plus roasted butternut squash and chives, all
in;the;poblano;chili.;It’s;one;big;chili,;about;10;oz.;when;stuffed.”
Having removed the seeds so that the chili is not too hot,
Mortenson rolls the stuffed chili in cornmeal for crunch, then
fries in oil. He drains the chili on a mesh screen before baking
for;about;10;minutes;at;350ºF.
“It’s;great;center-of-the-plate;served;with;guajillo;sauce;beneath
it,”;Mortenson;says.;“I’m;not;vegetarian,;but;like;so;many,;I’m
into;maintaining;my;health;and;weight.”
NE W YORK-BASED AWARD- WINNING JOURNALIS T KAREN WEISBERG HAS COVERED THE ISSUES AND
LUMINARIES OF THE FOOD-AND-BEVERAGE WORLD—BO TH COMMERCIAL AND NONCOMMERCIAL—
FOR MORE THAN 25 YEARS.
