National Culinary Review

Bar 888’s John Wight, sommelier/ wine steward/manager, recommends these Italian Imports: • Nardini • Marolo • Jacopo Poli • Bertagnolli Add some American artisanal products to your lineup from: Cedar Ridge Winery and Distillery Swisher, Iowa

Soft Tail Spirits Woodinville, Wash.

Muscardini Cellars Kenwood, Calif.

Sonoma Valley Portworks Petaluma, Calif.

Clear Creek Distillery
Portland, Ore.
STARTER STOCK
GRAPPA BASICS

SHOW AND TELL

Bar 888 at San Francisco’s InterContinental Hotel has one of the largest grappa collections
in the U.S. Most are from Italy and include some esoteric and expensive choices, as well as
more moderately priced ones. “We display 20 of our 100 bottles out in the open, behind the
bar,” says John Wight, sommelier/wine steward/manager. “It gets guests asking questions. Our
staff—trained to respond by engaging patrons in conversation—explain what grappa is, find
out about their taste preferences and then recommend something to try.”
For example, an individual who likes whiskey and bourbon would be steered toward an
oak-aged grappa. Those with a preference for sweeter drinks might prefer a grappa cocktail—
Bar 888 has 12—such as the one made with Marolo chamomile grappa, fresh lemon juice,
agave nectar and orange blossom water.

“The challenge for us is convincing our customers that this is not their grandpa’s grappa or
the harsh liquor they’ve heard about,” Wight says. “Our bartenders are always willing to pour
a small sample at no charge or create flights on the fly.”
Flights—three 1 oz. selections for $20—are a regular feature at Estate in Sonoma, Calif., a
restaurant that chef/owner Sondra Bernstein, also the woman behind Sonoma’s famed the Girl
and the Fig, describes as “country food with an Italian accent.” The well-stocked grappa cart
showcases traditional products from some of the larger Italian grappa houses and local artisanal
brands. “It gives us an opportunity to introduce our guests to another aspect of the wine experi-
ence and increase awareness of products made here,” Bernstein says.

A group of regulars, referred to as “the grappa boys,” comes in specifically to see what’s new. But many diners decide to try it because they see the cart, Bernstein says, and then overhear a server making a presentation to a table.

A mini-tutorial from beverage consultant Joseph Deluca, principal with Beverage Resources, Lakewood, Ohio, and vice president of the U.S. Bartenders’ Guild’s Ohio chapter.

There are four principal types:

Young grappa

Serve at 46ºF to 53ºF

Aged grappa—distinguished by yellowish/gold color and spicy tones

Serve at 59ºF to 64 ºF

Aromatic grappa—derived from aromatic grape varieties

Serve at 46ºF to 53ºF

Aromatized grappa—resulting from the effect of maceration or infusion

Serve at 46ºF to 53ºF

Any grape varietal can be used, but
the most common are:
• Moscato
• Malvasia
• Nebbiolo
• Nero d'Avola
• Chardonnay
• Tocai
• Merlot

Mixology

Young grappas and aromatic grappas made from white grapes are good for pisco drinks, such as a pisco sour and pisco punch, and can be substituted for gin in many drinks—think Negroni.

Cognac- and tequila-based drinks, such as the sidecar and El Diablo are good jumping-off points for working with aged grappas and young grappas made from red grapes.