yster bars and a variety of classic and novel
oyster applications have taken this favorite
seafood item and given it a place at the bar.
According to Brett Davis, co-owner of Doc Crow’s Southern
Smokehouse & Raw Bar in Louisville, Ky., oysters are a
major part of food in the South. “Along the coastline in
places like Charleston, Savannah, New Orleans and other
coastal towns, oysters are a big part of the food.”
O
Katy Casbarian, co-owner with brother Archie Casbarian of
Arnaud’s and Remoulade in New Orleans, agrees. “Oysters
are a staple of New Orleans and Creole cooking, and our
guests are interested in trying many different preparations.
And they certainly enjoy classics like Oysters Bienville and
Oysters Rockefeller.”
fried oysters
James Schroeder, executive chef of TJ’s at The Jefferson
Hotel in Richmond, Va., varies a fried oyster appetizer
according to the season. In winter, he features Chesapeake
Bay oysters with pickled jalapeño slaw, rémoulade, stone-ground grits and chili oil.
Schroeder marinates the oysters in buttermilk, then coats
them in a cornmeal/flour/Old Bay seasoning mixture. “I flash-fry the oysters quickly, to set the crust but to keep the inside
nice and soft. People enjoy the brininess and saltiness, which
you get more of when it has a soft texture in the middle.”
PHOTO CREDIT: Opposite, Josh Meredith; right, Images by Robert T
He serves the oysters with a housemade rémoulade sauce
and a couple of drops of chili oil to add a little heat. “Oysters
go well with a little heat,” says Schroeder. “They are soft and
succulent, and a little heat gives that little zing.”
In summer, he offers a different variation of the appetizer, with
apple/fennel slaw that is lighter and crisper for warmer months.
Doc Crow’s offers a seasoned fried oyster. “We use a house
seasoning and light flour and deep-fry them,” says Davis.
“We don’t do a thick batter, as we like it to be more delicate.
We want people to taste the oyster and not just the breading.”
OPPOSITE: At Doc Crow’s oyster bar, customers enjoy oysters on the half shell with
bourbon mignonette.
TOP RIGHT: Oysters en Brochette (fried oyster in a half shell) are one of the many
oyster preparations at Arnaud’s.
at the bar
Doc Crow’s sells more than 3,000 raw oysters each week, and
the oyster bar is the most popular way customers order them.
“You get a tray of oysters on ice, and they are shucked right
in front of you,” says Davis. “It’s unusual and unique to
have them shucked in front of you, and you can talk to the
shucker. It’s a major draw for us. People drive 50-60 miles to
visit us for this service.”
The oysters are served with a traditional cocktail sauce and a
bourbon mignonette.
6 oysters
¼ lb. fresh tuna loin
¼ cup picked, fine-chopped
basil
¼ cup picked, fine-chopped
mint
¼ cup picked, fine-chopped
cilantro
1 T. fish sauce
1 T. honey
2 T. rice wine vinegar
¼ cup olive oil
1 T. fresh lime juice
OYSTER ON THE HALF SHELL
with Ahi Tuna Tartare and Basil/Honey Vinaigrette
Steve Redzikowski, Chef/Owner | Oak at Fourteenth | Boulder, Colo.
METHOD: Shuck oysters; place
on crushed ice. Small-dice
tuna; put in mixing bowl. Add
basil, mint, cilantro, fish sauce,
honey, vinegar, olive oil and
lime juice; combine until evenly
mixed. Place small spoonful of
tuna tartare on each oyster.
