National Culinary Review

Often, the robust and enticing flavors are found in small-batch, local or artisanal spirits, which are growing in both availability and popularity, much to the delight of bartenders. “Micro distillation is going wild right now. We are seeing a ton of gin, vodka and whiskey. Plus, so many people are going after unique spirits and amaros [bitter liqueurs, traditionally from Italy]. It is awesome,” says Bryan Dayton, owner/bartender of Oak at Fourteenth in Boulder, Colo.

Those spirits, he notes, generally are made into cocktails. “On the rocks is the second most popular order. Third is straight up.” Pearson agrees that more and more artisan producers are cropping up. “One of my favorites is North Shore Distillery, which makes world-class spirits just outside Chicago.” But he warns that as the trend increases, people should be more aware which brands are actually local and not just marketed that way. “Also, just because it is artisanal and made locally does not mean it is a good product.”

WHAT’LL YOU HAVE?

Knowledge of spirits may be at an all-time high right now, and consumers are curious about regions, distillations and the

OPPOSITE: Syrups and shrubs are natural mixers and a must for the bar at One
Flew South in Atlanta.
ABOVE: Rye, single-barrel bourbon, scotch and cognac are popular choices at
Sepia in Chicago, where Joshua Pearson mans the bar.

stories behind the bottle. But while that may be a nationwide trend, where people come from and other demographic factors continue to play a role in what they drink.

In his travels around the country, Laird has discovered that regions play a big part in spirit preference. The East Coast is a scotch market, whereas the Midwest, especially Wisconsin and Minnesota, prefers brandy. The bourbon belt, though expanding globally, is prevalent in the mid-South. The West Coast is heavy with premium vodkas, while tequila is huge in Texas and Arizona, and along the Mexican border, as well.

“Though rum is popular in warmer climates, Canadian whiskies also do well in those climates,” Laird says. “I can attribute that to older demographics in warmer states and that Canadian whiskies offer a lighter taste at a value.” Not all older folks choose light, though. “I swear I see more older women order strong drinks—like the Manhattan or old fashioned—than the younger people. I personally think this is because 20-30 years ago, strong drinks were king,” says Dayton. “I love making women my mother’s age a Manhattan. I take great pride in it, and the ceremony.” Pearson notes, “Women are moving away from the sweeter, low-alcohol drinks that are traditionally marketed toward them and are moving toward assertive flavors, such as whisky and gin.” At some bars, men are moving toward the white spirits.

Pop culture is another factor in what people drink. HBO’s “Sex and the City” brought back the Cosmopolitan. Other television programs have their influence, too. “Most of our spirits go into cocktails,” says Kilgore. “We do surprisingly less with straight liquors, but we’ll see if that changes when ‘Mad Men’ [AMC’s series about ad men for whom drinking straight spirits is a way of life] returns.” Brand loyalty still exists, especially among the older generations. “A traditional Crown Royal drinker is much more interested in trying a Crown Black than switching categories to a tequila,” Pearson says.