Massaman curry-braised goat with fried
shallots, purple yams, mustard greens and
peanuts highlights the menu at Kin Shop.
play. A goat raised on grain, usually by a
large-scale goat producer, will have a high
ratio of fat to lean meat. It is believed that
it is this “old” fat that becomes gamey.
Meat breeds that browse grasses and
pasture, and are slaughtered at about 30
pounds, are regarded as the ideal animals.
But beginning to be considered just as
ideal are young male dairy goats.
With the growth of small dairies producing
high-quality goat cheese, the demand for
milk increases, but with this comes the
issue of what to do with the buck kids.
Just as young bulls are increasingly being
raised to provide humanely sourced veal,
the sale of buck kids provides a market for
an otherwise unusable animal, and value
added for the producer.
At Lynnhaven Goat Cheeses, Pine Bush,
N. Y., a growing herd produces about 300
kids a year, obviously not all of them female
milk producers. Although this is primarily
a cheese operation, selling regularly to
restaurants that include James Beard
award-winning Eleven Madison Park and
ABC Kitchen, producer Lynn Fleming
is selling meat to restaurants and at
Greenmarkets throughout New York. And,
she says, the meat business is growing.
“I had about 25 kids in June, and three
older animals that I had ground,” Fleming
says. “By the end of the month, we were
already half sold out. There is much more
of an interest in people eating goat.”
Jan Greenberg, author of Hudson Valley
Harvest (Countryman Press, 2003), is
based in Rhinebeck, N. Y.
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