National Culinary Review

SWEET PANEER BITES

which is soft and therefore spreadable. She simply simmers milk at 150-160°F, then adds vinegar until the curds and whey separate. She adds the Middle Eastern spice za'atar for a woody, earthy flavor. She spreads the cheese on raisin/currant or raisin/rosemary bread and drizzles with local honey. “It’s great for a breakfast or brunch item,” she says.

a table cheese or incorporated in the dish. “Originally, it was wrapped in mint leaves for preservation, so generally, you see mint on it or it’s served with mint-type condiments. It also pairs well with such fruit as grapes or melon in the summer,” Perillo says.

Kristine Subido, Executive Chef
Wave, W hotel
Chicago
Yield: 6 servings

Labneh and halloumi are other Middle Eastern cheeses of interest to chefs. Labneh is a Lebanese yogurt/cream cheese extremely common in Turkey. Yogurt is easy to culture: Simply tie it up in cheesecloth, hang it to strain out the whey, and dry it out for about 24 hours. Preserve the ball of cheese in olive oil, says Robert Perillo, a lecturing instructor in the cuisines of Europe and the Mediterranean at the CIA. Labneh is a common table cheese to be eaten with pita, but it can also be cooked.

MEXICO

Because of Mexico’s proximity and the popularity of its cuisine, Mexican cheeses such as queso fresco, queso blanco and queso oaxaca are becoming well-known in the U.S.

Before hanging it, herbs such as mint or lavender can be added. In true Middle Eastern style, Perillo likes to begin with a good Greek yogurt and mix in za'atar before tying it up in cheesecloth. “I like it with honey on top for dessert or before a meal,” he says, adding that yogurt is easily digestible for the slightly lactose intolerant.

In Hispanic tradition, cheese used in Mexican cooking is often of the crumbly sort that tops food. “In that regard, usually it’s non-melting cheese. They want it to stay there without flowing,” says Mark Johnson, senior scientist at the Wisconsin Center for Dairy Research on the campus of the University of Wisconsin, Madison. Queso fresco and queso blanco are non-melting.

1 t. cornstarch

1 t. all-purpose flour Pinch of salt

1 T. cold water

3 T. vegetable oil

8 oz. paneer cheese, cut in ½-inch cubes 1 medium onion, sliced in rings 4 green chilies, such as jalapeño or serrano 2 garlic cloves, crushed 2 t. Demerara sugar or white sugar ½ t. ground black pepper 2 T. malt vinegar 2 T. ketchup 2 T. dark soy sauce 4 T. boiling water

Culturally, cost is a big factor with Hispanic cheese. “In other countries, they can remove milk fat and add vegetable oils to cheapen the price,” Johnson says. This gives it a slightly different flavor. “It’s hard for us to do that. It’s illegal for us (and can still be called ‘cheese’). So if you’re looking for real ethnic, that’s hard for us.”

Halloumi, which originated in Cyprus, is
generally a mixture of goat’s and sheep’s
milk, and has a unique slightly rubbery
texture as a firm cheese, making it
conducive for frying and grilling, Perillo
says. Because it holds its shape well, it is
an easy skewer item on kebabs with lamb
or vegetables. Another option is to grill
or pan-fry it and use as a salad topping,
although in Cyprus, it is frequently used as
While Italian cheeses have typically been
the most popular in the U.S., Hispanic
cheese popularity is burgeoning, says Regi
Hise, corporate chef/director of culinary
development for cheese manufacturer Emmi
Roth USA Inc., Monroe, Wis. Mexican culinary
tradition is now merging with ours, making its
cheeses the most newly discovered category.

1) In medium bowl, mix cornstarch, flour and salt with cold water to make thin paste. Toss cheese cubes in mixture to coat. Heat oil in medium skillet over medium-low heat. Add cheese cubes; fry about 5 minutes or until golden-brown, turning to brown all sides. Remove with slotted spoon; drain on paper towel. 2) Add onion rings to skillet; sauté until lightly browned. Remove; drain on paper towel. 3) In same skillet, combine chilies, garlic, sugar, black pepper, vinegar, ketchup, soy sauce and boiling water. Cook over low heat about 2 minutes. Add browned cheese cubes; mix well, smothering cheese cubes with sauce. 4) Serve hot with onion rings.