National Culinary Review

“INSIDE-OUT” GRILLED CHEESE WITH RED ONION JAM

Todd Downs, Chef/Owner
FoodSense Inc.
Fort Wayne, Ind.

Yield: 12 servings

12 slices seeded whole-grain bread, such as sunflower seed, 2x2-inch square, 1/8-inch thick, crusts removed

6 T. butter, melted

24 slices queso blanco cheese, 2x2-inch square, ¼-inch thick Red Onion Jam (recipe follows)

The most popular cheese in India, paneer,
is made this way. “Paneer always comes
from whole milk in tradition,” Smythe says.
“You wouldn’t fiddle with the gift from God.
It would be audacious.”
candied orange rind, syrup or orange juice
concentrate. Then, mix and press. For a
savory application, fold in fire-roasted red
and green jalapeño, mint and cilantro stems,
and serve it with pita bread. Flatbread is
common in India and in the Mediterranean.

Method: Brush bread slices on both sides with melted butter. Toast until golden-brown. Heat large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat; lightly grill cheese squares until golden-brown on both sides. On cutting board, layer each of 12 cheese squares with 1 t. red onion jam, slice of toasted bread, 1 t. jam, cheese square. Press sandwich together. If preparing ahead, warm sandwiches in 350ºF oven before service.

Paneer can be bland, and, therefore, salt is often added. In India, paneer is often cubed and mixed with vegetables and spices. Because it is non-melting, it can be fried, grilled, skewered, breaded and put into all kinds of cooking preparations, including the Indian one-pot cooking method using the karahi pot for stews, Smythe says.

Kristine Subido, executive chef at Wave at the W hotel in Chicago, says she likes to use paneer cheese in some of her small-plate dishes because it easily absorbs different flavors and seasonings. She has breaded, fried and served it with harissa, a hot red-pepper sauce typically used in North African cooking. It turns out golden-brown and crunchy on the outside and soft on the inside.

Red Onion Jam

2 red onions, peeled, cut in very thin,
match-sized strips
¼ cup vegetable oil
½ cup rice vinegar
¼ cup grenadine syrup
Juice of 1 lemon
½ cup golden raisins

1 T. fresh thyme leaves or ½ t. dried thyme Freshly ground pepper, to taste

It’s a natural cheese to use in vegetarian applications, but otherwise, because paneer is simple to make, Smythe notes that chefs take their own creative liberties with it. Once it coagulates, some purée it with various fruits to make a dessert, which could be a pudding or custard. “Mostly, today, people use it as a sweet savory or in plain form and highlight what it is. It could be used to make a blintz filling,” he says.

The traditional Indian saag dish made with spinach, spices and paneer also works on her menu. Or, she has marinated paneer in olive oil and citrus, grilled it and served it sizzling on a platter.

For example, for an orange paneer, after coagulating and before pressing add

MIDDLE EAST

Middle Eastern flavors and cheeses are another source Subido draws on at Wave. She makes some of her own cheese, including Turkish-inspired farmer’s cheese,

Method: Sauté onion in oil about 20 minutes (do not brown). Add vinegar, grenadine syrup, lemon juice, raisins, thyme and pepper. Cook until thickened, about 20 minutes.

Among the most popular Mexican cheeses are queso fresco (left) and queso blanco. The cheese on the right is queso blanco with chilies and epazote. All three are made by Mozzarella Company, Dallas.