National Culinary Review

AT THE BAR
Spirits H I G H
Gin resurfaces at the bar and table.
By Deborah Grossman

AT THE Tales of the Cocktail conference in New Orleans this summer, four seminars showcased gin and only one workshop featured vodka. During the “History of Gin” seminar, Tony Abou-Ganim, the Modern Mixologist, reminded attendees that 200 gin recipes were listed in The Savoy Cocktail Book, published in 1930—and only two for vodka.

This Gin & Tonic with Spiced Ice, made with Van Gogh gin and ice cubes spiced with habañero peppers, was created by Kara Newman, author of Spice & Ice (Chronicle Books, 2009).

Despite the flood of chocolate martinis and pomegranate cosmos, gin is resurfacing at the bar. Brands are popping up with both classic and inventive approaches. With an array of flavor profiles, gin continues to evolve as an intriguing ingredient for cocktails and food pairing.

When Norman Bonchick started selling Seagram’s products in 1971, bottles of gin outnumbered vodka at the bar. But soon, sales of neutral vodka eclipsed those of its botanically inspired cousin by a huge margin. “Vodka became popular because you could mix it—the screwdriver and the Bloody Mary ensured its popularity. Gin is, after all, an acquired taste,” says Bonchick, now CEO of Van Gogh Imports, Orlando, Fla.

Bonchick’s first Van Gogh product was gin, quickly followed by flavored vodkas such as citron, double espresso and açai/ blueberry. These vodkas spawned a new school of mixed drinks.

Cocktail authority gaz regan, author of the bartender’s GIN compendium (Xlibris, 2009), is a self-professed whisky aficionado. A latecomer to gin, he highlights the simplicity and tastefulness of the classic Negroni. “Gin. Campari. Sweet vermouth. Equal proportions. On the rocks. Orange wheel or twist—garnish. Got it?”

REBRANDING GIN’S REPUTATION The mystique and ritual around gin remains strong. Ti Martin, proprietor of Commander’s Palace and Café Adelaide in New Orleans, recalls her Aunt Adelaide Brennan stirring her gin drinks with a gold swizzle stick worn around her neck. Martin named Café Adelaide’s bar The Swizzle Stick, and here bartender Michael Manganaro converted Sima Krusheski of Wilmington, Del., a determined vodka drinker, to gin with a Gin-Gin Mule. “It was worth my trip to Tales to finally appreciate gin,” says Krusheski.