National Culinary Review

Matt Armendariz

new. Lunch trucks filled with packaged goods, hot dog carts and traditional taco vendors have long been part of the urban landscape. But the two “hot tamales,” chefs/restaurateurs Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger of Border Grill (Santa Monica, Calif., and Las Vegas) and Border Grill Stop, Los Angeles, like their counterparts coast to coast, are upping the ante with creative, gourmet-style fare at modest prices.

“Border Grill is known for our quirky take on Mexican food,” says Milliken. “The truck menu is a limited selection of the same thing we do there. But people don’t have to pay for tablecloths, waiters and all the services.” Restaurant staff handles basic prep, but food is finished to order in the fully equipped mobile kitchen. It doubles as a catering van for parties, providing another revenue stream. Recently, the company purchased a custom-made truck to replace the vehicle it was leasing. It has two service windows, a freezer and generators that run on filtered fryer oil from the restaurants.

There’s no random cruising for customers. “We go to specific destinations—business parks at lunchtime, special events that attract big crowds,” says Milliken. “And we hired someone whose job is to plan itineraries weeks in advance.” If a location

Peter Barrett

turns out to be a dud, the driver calls headquarters for another suggestion. “When there isn’t one, we have them come in, and get everyone off the clock.” Milliken sees the potential for profits, but focuses on other benefits. “The truck, which provides a fabulous service to the public, is a great way to get our message and our food out to a much wider audience,” she says.

LOCAL SIXFORTYSEVEN, MARSHALL, VA. Derek and Amanda Luhowiak raise 25% of the food they use 40 miles from the nation’s capital, and call themselves “farmers with a food truck.” They purchase almost everything else from local sources. Vending from a mobile stand keeps prices for their field-to-fork cuisine affordable.

“I use beef and cheese from grass-
fed animals and heirloom tomatoes
for my burger,” says Derek Luhowiak.
He also makes his own mayo, ketchup
and mustard, and buys buns from an
artisan baker. He spends $6.50, and
charges $10. “That’s a lot for a cart, but
inexpensive for something comparable in
a D.C. restaurant,” he says.

The former executive chef works out of a 6 x 10-foot stainless steel trailer. “The size is ideal for the 10 x 10-foot spaces at the

These Yucatan pork tacos—braised achiote pork, black beans, pickled onion and orange jicama slaw—can be found on the Border Grill Truck.

farmers markets we go to,” he explains. Area vineyards are another regular destination. “And if the pickup breaks down, we can hook it up to another truck.” farmers markets we go to,” he explains.

The little silver box is outfitted with a 24-inch grill, a 24-inch griddle and two propane-fueled burners, a service window and an awning. The Luhowiaks create a mini cafe in front with three folding wooden bistro tables and chairs.

The couple’s home kitchen is state-certified commercial. To increase their income, they’ll be selling, from the truck, condiments and pickles they’ve canned.

“Because we want to be as green as possible, we won’t drive long distances,” Luhowiak says. “But our rural location doesn’t have the population density of a city. The idea is to attract people from urban areas and capitalize on the fact that this is one of the richest counties in America.” Unfortunately, it’s also a county that does not allow cell towers. Without reliable reception, there’s no Twittering their whereabouts, as so many food trucks do. They must rely on their website calendar and Facebook updates.