National Culinary Review

In one corner was a specimen from the plenteous, inexpensive supply of Chinese garlic. In the other corner sat he Christopher Ranch LLC (Gilroy, Calif.) heirloom variety. In a taste-off/ cook-off, the chef/referee was Michael Giletto, executive chef at Cherry Valley Country Club, Skillman, N.J., who got o the bottom of the taste differences. He conducted various tests on both varieties with definitive results. through the center and removed the cloves and stem. The shape of the Chinese garlic was poor, and the cloves were detached. The sweetness was pleasant for 30 minutes, but became bitter as it sat. The eating experience was sweet going in and bitter going down. The tongue-feel against the roof of the mouth was creamy, but grainy. Chinese versus California dual

Raw garlic

Using whole bulbs and peeled cloves, Giletto observed that the Chinese garlic was dry, grainy and had fiber strands. The aroma was strong for 10 minutes, then dropped off quickly as it sat for the remainder of the hour.

The California garlic held its shape. The sweetness lasted longer, both while it was hot and as it cooled down. The mouthfeel was creamy, smooth and aromatic. The tongue-feel against the roof of the mouth was flavorful and creamy.

The California garlic was moist, less fibrous and had a much brighter cream/ white color. The aroma lasted longer over the hour he tested it. At the end, it still had a nice bite with a sharpness that lasted longer on the sides of the tongue.

Sous vide

Cloves from a jar and a few hand-peeled cloves were tested after first being sautéed at 190ºF, then, using the sous vide method, heated in a water bath at 141º F. In both Chinese and California garlic, natural oils were released, adding a pleasant aroma and slight color change. The Chinese garlic, however, developed a hint of unappetizing brownness. After 40 minutes, the shape and texture were still holding round and slightly firm. At 1 hour, the texture was mushy and creamy, but had a stringy feel between the fingers. A nutty smell was released from the bag.

Slow-roasted

Giletto slow-roasted bulbs, then cut

Sauté of chopped cloves at 190ºF Giletto tested fresh, chopped garlic from the bulb with stem removed. With the Chinese version, the color looked good for an hour after it was sautéed, but looked dry. The texture was chewy and gummy. After resting for 40 minutes, it became soft and limp. It had to be thrown away after an hour. The California garlic held its color for a full hour after being sautéed at 190ºF. After 40 minutes, it was still crisp and full of flavor. At 60 minutes, it was still holding firm, crisp and texturally sound.

The California garlic also held its shape and texture after 40 minutes. At 1 hour, the texture was soft and creamy to the fingers and the tongue. A buttery aroma was dispersed.

not a good substitute for garlic if you’re looking for a nice heavy-garlic flavor.” The lack of pungency makes elephant garlic an apt ingredient sliced thin and eaten raw in salads, or as a burger topping. “If you cook it, either roast it or quickly sauté it. If you sauté in butter, you want to catch it before it turns brown. Once it gets to that point, it will probably start getting bitter,” Fraker says.

M.J. Adams, chef/owner of The Corn Exchange Restaurant & Bistro in Rapid City, S.D., likes to roast elephant garlic in olive oil with thyme and serve it as an appetizer, allowing guests to smear the garlic cloves on bread. She also likes to pickle cloves, she says, adding that an elephant garlic clove is about the same size as a radish and looks nice on the plate.

flavor. It also makes a great aïoli ingredient because it does not have such a strong flavor and does not leave an aftertaste.

When cooking with garlic, no matter the type, Adams cautions against being in too big of a hurry with it. “So many people, when I see them cook, everything has to be fast. They burn the garlic. When you cook it slowly, the flavors can develop,” she says.

Elephant garlic can be about the size of an orange, and it is easier to peel than regular garlic, Fraker says. For other uses, he suggests chopping it and sprinkling it over pasta, pizza, rice, scrambled eggs or omelets. Or, grill it, giving it a quick char for the smoky

Melissa’s/ World Variety Produce Inc.

Jody Shee is a freelance writer and former magazine editor based in Olathe, Kan. She specializes in foodservice, with 20 years of editorial experience.