and Drink, located in the heart of the
Miami Design District, created a menu of
small plates, figuring that was the best
way to go when he opened his eatery
three years ago. Duck Confit Hash with
Creamy Parsley Sauce and Poached Duck
Egg ($9) is a somewhat comforting dish
that people feel safe ordering, Schwartz
believes. “It piques your interest, even if
you’re a conservative diner—some folks
have never had a duck egg,” he says.
for great chicken salad, as well. It’s a
heritage breed of bird with a thinner skin,
and it’s just what I think chicken should
taste like,” he says.
To prepare, he seasons the chicken simply
with salt and pepper, places a sprig of thyme
on each breast beneath the skin, then
roasts it whole in a wood-burning stove the
night before service. The following morning,
he picks the meat and prepares the salad
by adding scratch-made mayo, Honeycrisp
apples, celery and red onion (all small dice).
“It’s a very basic recipe, taking advantage of
quality ingredients, plus buttery brioche with
more butter spread on it, a beautiful piece
of local lettuce and a small frisée salad,”
Schwartz says.
chicken, Monterey Jack cheese and broccoli
was among the offerings. “Chicken strata is
my favorite strata—it gets too firm with ham,”
Gand explains. “It’s more tender with chicken,
like a savory bread pudding, and as a pastry
chef, that texture appeals to me. Plus, it’s
golden and bubbly because of the cheese.”
Since the restaurant confits quite a lot
of duck for the dinner menu, this brunch
item is a perfect way to use product that
has fallen apart and isn’t quite so pretty,
Schwartz says. “We take the picked meat
from the duck legs and thighs, mix it with
sautéed onion, garlic, potato and herbs,
form it into little cakes, give them a dusting
of flour and then pan-fry.”
To prepare the strata, she combines pulled
chicken, shredded Monterey Jack cheese,
blanched broccoli florets and frozen corn
kernels with chopped canned jalapeños,
because they’re not as hot as fresh ones
and they’re already seeded.
Tastes like—chicken
A firm believer in using the best products
available, Schwartz prepares his Wood
Roasted Chicken Salad Sandwich on
Toasted Brioche ($8) from Poulet Rouge,
an heirloom rustic chicken originally from
France. “It’s one of the best, and great
chicken makes for great chicken, and
For the definitive word on brunch (plus 100
recipes), many chefs, as well as home cooks,
turn to Gale Gand’s Brunch! (Clarkson
Potter, 2009), the latest of Gand’s seven
cookbooks. As executive chef/partner of
Tru, Chicago, for the past 11 years, she has
created many a special-occasion brunch, but
doesn’t offer them weekly at the restaurant.
“I cube stale bread, then prepare the custard
from eggs, milk and a bit of dry mustard that
makes the cheese taste cheesier, to kind of
pop,” she says. “Pour the mixture over the
cubes of bread, sprinkle all the vegetables
and the chicken over the top, then stir
in—three stirs and you’re done. Cover the
dish to soak overnight in the refrigerator. Next
morning, bake it for about an hour. It’s a great
do-ahead dish for a buffet and for big groups.”
At the coming-out out party brunch when
her book debuted last year, a strata with
For additional eye-appeal, Gand dolls it up
by preparing and serving it in a white oval
gratin dish.
New York-based award-winning journalist
Karen Weisberg has covered the
issues and luminaries of the food-and-
beverage world—both commercial and
noncommercial—for more than 25 years.
Grilled Quail with Warm Salad of Kuri
Squash, Pomegranates, Ricotta Salata
and Pistachios is on the brunch menu at
Almond Bar & Restaurant. Chef/partner
Jason Weiner also served it at a recent
James Beard House Sunday Brunch.
