goal of offering high-quality, high-tech
food infused with a sense of playfulness.
“Things have gotten less formal. There
are no longer any culinary boundaries that
define fine dining.”
Peter Smith, chef/owner of PS 7’s in
Washington, D.C., enjoys preparing
charcuterie but admits that applying his
sausage skills to wieners started out as a
joke. “Initially, we did it kind of tongue-in-cheek, because they’re not what people
expect in an upscale fine-dining restaurant
like this,” he says. “But customers loved
them—they’re understandable, delicious
and rarely made from scratch.”
To meet demand, he produces mini franks
and a larger iteration that weighs in at just
under a ¼ pound three times a week in
20-pound batches. Besides generating
repeat business, the all-beef hot dogs are
a way to use trim, he says, so he produces
less waste and operates more sustainably.
Topped dog
Lacking adequate facilities or equipment,
Eric Williams, chef/partner in Cleveland’s
Happy Dog, can’t produce his own
frankfurters. He found a local meat
supplier willing to manufacture them
according to his specs. Besides a specific
flavor and texture profile, he needed
straight dogs that don’t roll over on the
flattop. “That’s essential for even cooking
so you get a juicy interior and an almost
caramelized exterior,” says Williams.
The kitchen concentrates its efforts on
the condiments and all manner of things
that can be heaped in and on a bun. There
are 50 choices, among them saffron aïoli,
vodka sauerkraut, Korean kimchi, Oaxacan
mole, roasted piquillo peppers, bacon-
spiked greens, blue-cheese slaw, chipotle
hollandaise, bourbon baked beans,
diced veggies and a variety of cheeses.
Customers create their own combinations.
There are no limits to how many toppings
they can select, and the price is always
$5. According to Williams, most customers
go for four to five extras. “My cooks are
trained to know in what order to put them
on for maximum effect. No two tickets are
ever the same, and that’s fun for the staff.”
Hot dogs and toppings, along with tater
tots and french fries, is the only food
available at Happy Dog. Costs per dog
are high: 40%-45%. The formula works
because the place is primarily a cool
corner bar with live music. “People have
three reasons to be here and three
reasons to come back,” says Williams.
The Texas “Haute” Dog is a top seller at
Max’s Wine Dive. It’s been on the menu
since the original Houston location opened
in December 2006, and is also served at the
second location in Austin that debuted in
May 2009. “At first we used a grass-fed beef
wiener,” says co-owner Jonathan Horowitz,
“but the economics didn’t work. We switched
to Hebrew National brand. That’s a taste
people know and like. Then we put our
gourmet spin on it.” The spin includes a soft
bun from an area artisan baker, buffalo chili,
fried onion strings, white Mexican Cotija
cheese and housemade pickled jalapeños.
One’s enough for most diners, and some split
an order. At $14, it’s not cheap, but compared
to an expensive entrée, this loaded hot dog
is a bargain that appeals to foodies. Paired
with a glass of Bella’s Garden Shiraz from
Two Hands, Horowitz adds, this all-American
favorite becomes something really special.
Laura Taxel is a Cleveland-based journalist
and author who writes about food, chefs
and the restaurant business for consumer
and trade publications.
