FLAVORS
Parents can eat a $36 dry-aged steak and
know that if their kids order a $7 hot dog,
they’re getting something they like that’s
of equal quality, McBride says. “Having
them on the menu keeps us a white-tablecloth restaurant that’s family friendly.”
Bernie Laskowski, Executive Chef
Park Grill
Chicago
Food with a side of nostalgia
“Like most people, I grew up with hot
dogs,” says Bernie Laskowski, executive
chef of Park Grill in Chicago. “They’re
accessible, approachable, affordable
and satisfying.” That appeals to today’s
diners, he adds, but it doesn’t mean they
want the same old thing. Laskowski
has been experimenting with various
fillings, producing a lamb dog that evokes
the flavor of a gyro and mini duck corn
dogs topped with his housemade cherry
ketchup. “I start with something simple
that people know and associate with
this city, then go for the wow factor, but
without freaking people out,” he says.
Cherry Ketchup
Jai Girard Photography
Yield: 2 cups
1 cup dried cherries
1 t. minced ginger
1 cup sugar
1 cup white vinegar
½ cup water
Salt and pepper, to taste
rests the mix when done, and then feeds
it into the stuffer, tying off in 2-inch
increments. The links get a second rest
followed by an hour in the smoker at 140º F.
Park Grill’s mini duck corn dogs are
topped with Bernie Laskowski’s
housemade cherry ketchup.
Method: Put cherries, ginger, sugar,
vinegar and water in nonreactive
saucepot. Bring to a simmer, uncovered;
let simmer over low flame 25 minutes
(stir bottom to prevent scorching).
When cherries take on plumped look
and liquid is reduced by half, remove
from heat; cool. Purée in food processor
or with hand food mill until lumpy. Taste;
adjust with salt and pepper.
The little duck dogs, four to a plate, totaling
6½- 7 ounces for $12, are a popular bar
snack. They start with a mixture of equal
parts trimmed, diced breasts and legs.
Laskowski combines the duck with pork
fat in a ratio of 4-to-1, and freezes it before
processing to a mousse-like consistency.
“The friction of grinding creates heat,”
he explains, “and in sausage-making,
maintaining a proper temperature is
essential. I chill all the equipment in ice
baths, and constantly stick a thermometer in
the meat to be sure it stays between 35ºF
and 38ºF.” He moistens spices with water
before adding for more even distribution,
At Blackbird (one of the properties in Paul
Kahan’s Chicago restaurant group), Mike
Sheerin, chef de cuisine, is also changing
up the filling. “Almost everyone has a soft
spot for hot dogs, because we remember
them from childhood,” he says.
menues goat merguez dogs for an appetizer
atop a spoonful of braised, barbecued goat
accompanied by a salad of tomatillos, black
radishes and frisée in a hazelnut vinaigrette.
“Because the form’s familiar and the portions
are small, they’ve been an effective way to
break down people’s resistance to trying
these less-common meats,” Sheerin says.
Taking off from that basic concept, he’s
prepared rabbit chorizo corn dogs presented
with corn aïoli and corn/almond streusel as
an amuse-bouche in spring and summer. He
The rabbit version also contains some
pork and is more emulsified than the goat,
so it’s closer in consistency to an actual
frank. Mixtures for both are prepped in
large batches, then cryovaced and pulled
out for finishing, as needed. Sheerin says
the dogs fit right in with the restaurant’s
