WINE TALK
Crown
Jewel
Argentina is a true gem in South America’s wine industry.
By David O’Day
Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steakhouse
in Manhattan currently offers more
than 1,600 selections on the wine list.
There are more than 35 wines from
South America, with 20-plus labels from
Argentina. As director of wine for Del
Frisco’s Restaurant Group, I am confident
that we will continue to expand our
selection from this promising region.
the water needed to nourish the vines.
Growers also rely on wells, although annual
rainfall is less than 10 inches a year. The
Argentine winters tend to be on the mild
side, so while growers must constantly be
prepared for the worst, frost is uncommon.
However, chances of hail are always a
concern for growers in Mendoza, and in the
event of a hailstorm, crop destruction can
be of epic proportions. In response to hail
damage, the Anti-Hail Movement, controlled
by Argentina’s Agriculture and Climate
Control Group (AACCG), was established in
1973. In the past, Mendoza lost about 10%
of its annual crop from hail damage, but that
has been cut nearly in half, thanks to the
efforts of the AACCG.
The National Culinary Review | October 2009
50
While 50% of the vines in Argentina are
more than 25 years old, 25% are four
to eight years old. The vineyard growers
are replanting volume grape varietals
with premium selections such as Malbec,
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay and
Sauvignon Blanc. Argentina is best known for
the Malbec grape, a French red variety that
can be complex, intense and age-worthy. As
for white wine varietals, Argentina primarily
cultivates Chardonnay and Sauvignon
Blanc grapes that are comparable to the
depth, complexity and concentration
produced in some of the most elite
wine-growing regions.
There are many exciting wineries and
winemakers in the area that deserve praise
and accolades. Today, however, I share my
thoughts on two legendary wineries that I
feel truly exemplify the spirit, passion and
grace of the Argentine people.
The climate is semidesert, with little
rainfall and long, hot summers. The
Andes, which rises more than
23,000 feet on the western
plain of Mendoza, helps supply
Pascual Toso Winery
I have been fortunate to visit Argentina
twice. During my last visit, I received an
invitation to a luncheon hosted by Enrique
Toso at the Las Barrancas Estate located
outside Mendoza in Maipu. Toso and
