Top: panzano changes the cooking
method from deep-frying to roasting
the brussels sprouts for its cavolini di
bruxelles, which includes apple cider
reduction, pistachios, rosemary salt and
sliced green apple.
bo TTom: Gluten-free frozen
chocolate parfait at The publican
is chocolate chiboust, chocolate
creameux, sesame butter, maple
espresso syrup, toasted candy cap
marshmallows and dukkah mix.
“A guest needs to speak up, too, and let servers know they have a food allergy,”
ThE EvOlUtIoN Of GlUtEn-FrEe FlOuR
says Shawn Grodensky, culinary leader at gusto!, Atlanta. “It’s then the restaurant’s
responsibility to prepare a safe and flavorful dish.”
Most states require people handling food to take ServSafe Allergen awareness training
and be certified through the National Restaurant Association Educational Foundation.
There also are organizations that will audit and certify kitchens that are allergen- and
gluten-free, such as Northern Colorado-based Kitchens with Confidence and Food Safety
Training Solutions, Hagerstown, Maryland. Restaurants that are certified can display a
gluten-free icon on menus, reassuring guests that the kitchen is gluten-free.
Finding gluten-free flour that was pliable, had some rise to it and didn’t taste like
cardboard was a treasure hunt 10 years ago. The evolution of gluten-free flours has progressed in
the last five years, but it’s critical to understand the nuances in gluten-free flours and which ones
give the best outcome.
“So many desserts include gluten,” says Erika Chan, pastry chef at The Publican in Chicago.
“But cooking gluten-free allows chefs to experiment with different flours and cooking techniques
that might better suit a dish than a gluten alternative.”
Amaranth, quinoa, millet, chickpea and gluten-free oat flours are rich in nutrients and high in
protein. They add elasticity to yeast breads and pizza crusts, but for delicate cookies and layer cakes,
rice flour and corn flour are more desirable. Also, because gluten-free flours do not have the properties
needed for proper absorption and hydration, it’s a challenge to achieve the right dough consistency.