SpeCial meNuS all day long
All-day dining is on the rise. The number of new and future restaurants featuring breakfast, lunch and dinner, as well as in-between meals and late-night offerings, shows that this is more
than a passing trend.
In Los Angeles, Jessica Koslow of Sqirl is opening an all-day Israeli restaurant to be named
Tel. In nearby Santa Monica, Lunetta All Day is a modern neighborhood diner helmed by chef
Raphael Lunetta, who operates fine-dining Lunetta next door.
In Austin, Texas, Elizabeth Street Café doubles as a Vietnamese cafe and French boulangerie,
offering such diverse dishes as a Nutella/banana-stuffed crêpe and pork belly steamed buns and
poached eggs. And in partnership with chef Nathan Thurston, miller/grains producer Greg Johnsman
of Geechie Boy Mill, Edisto Island, South Carolina, has opened Millers All Day in Charleston.
New York’s trendy Williamsburg neighborhood will house Gertie, set to open later this year.
The focus will be rotisserie oven specialties ranging from a morning grilled turkey with egg, cheese
and pickles to what chef/owner Nate Adler calls “dinner party-inspired mains” in the evening. And
for the growing number of families moving to the once-industrial area, there is a menu of after-school sweets such as Italian ice and soft-serve.
Even well-known chefs and restaurateurs are getting into the act. Mexican chef Enrique
Olvera, whose Cosme in New York is regularly on the world’s best restaurant list, oversees the
All Day Long
Breakfast at noon, a midafternoon snack,
supper after the sun goes down? Increasingly,
we’re eating when it suits us. By Jan Greenberg