According to Stephen Gerike, assistant vice president
of channel marketing for the National Pork Board, Des
Moines, Iowa, the new common names for pork-loin
cuts are part of an industry-wide effort to let consumers
and foodservice operators see the same names for meat
cuts. Operators can and should use these names on the
menu to increase perceived value among diners and,
thus, warrant a higher menu price and profit.
SIRLOIN CHOPS, both bone-in and boneless, are from the
portion of the pork loin that meets the fresh leg on the
hog. They are finely grained muscles that hold moisture
and flavor well. They are best served as cutlets, either
sauteed or breaded and fried like schnitzel.
PORTERHOUSE CHOPS are bone-in chops that consist of
loin muscle and the tenderloin. Cook them like a
porterhouse steak: direct heat on a grill or under a
broiler until medium-rare.
T-BONE CHOPS, also bone-in, consist of loin muscle and
a smaller portion of the tenderloin tail. Cook like a
T-bone steak: direct heat on a grill or under a broiler
NE W YORK CHOPS are only available boneless. This is
the loin, or longissimus muscle, that’s opposite the
tenderloin in both porterhouse and T-bone chops. Cook
like a New York strip steak.
CEN TER CU T CHOPS with the bone in are similar to a New
York strip steak or shell steak. They differ from the
rib-eye because there isn’t any spinalis muscle or cap
showing on the top of the chop.
RIB-EYE CHOPS, both bone-in and boneless, are from the
rib portion of the loin and carry one or more of the loin
back ribs on each chop, depending on thickness. Cook
like a rib-eye steak.
COUN TRY CHOPS and COUN TRY ST YLE RIBS are available both
bone-in and boneless. These are chops and rib portions
from the loin nearest the shoulder end. They consist
of many different muscles and must be cooked to
medium-rare or medium on direct heat. If overcooked,
they must be braised for a long time until tender again.
TENDERLOINS, both whole and portioned into medallions,
can be cut in many different sizes and thicknesses.
The tenderloin is pulled from the loin when a boneless
loin is being fabricated. Once the tenderloin has been
removed, the only cuts that can come from that area of
the loin are New York chops.
BREN T T. FREI IS PRINCIPAL OF FREI & ASSOCIATES,
480 UNION ST., BROOKLYN / WWW.PIGBEACHNYC.COM
The group’s final destination was
an homage to all things American
barbecue. But this is no joint.
Amid the vast indoor and outdoor
square footage (on the banks of the
Gowanus Canal, no less) sporting
a wealth of fun Americana, Abdoo
and his brother-in-law, executive
chef Jeff Michner, served up loin
back ribs rubbed with all-purpose
barbecue seasoning and brown
sugar, then smoked, basted and
slathered with Rob’s Righteous Red
BBQ Sauce and served with house-cured pickles. And the perfect
ending to a pork-loin-filled day?
Abdoo turned out to be the ideal
chef host for Pork Crawl 2017—not only
because the tour began at one and ended
at another of his restaurants. While
New York isn’t known as a traditional
barbecue destination, Pig Beach aims
to change that. With a focus on local,
sustainable ingredients and a commitment
to delivering good food, this sprawling
restaurant was born from a 2015 summer
pop-up. Pig Beach went year-round in 2016,
and quickly became a Brooklyn favorite.
The menu ranges from barbecue
classics such as pork shoulder with Hatch
chile vinegar sauce to the Big Ass Smoked
Pork Tomahawk Chop with peach/
habanero glaze. With more than 80 years
of collective cooking and restaurant-service experience coupled with several
top awards at America’s foremost barbecue
cooking competitions, Abdoo and his Pig
Beach team are not an upstart, but rather,
a skilled and knowledgeable group of
professional chefs who are determined to
bring barbecue culture to the next level.
329 SMITH ST., BROOKLYN / WWW.NIGHTINGALENINE.COM
At this point in the Crawl, media members
and the handful of chefs representing the
National Pork Board were beyond full. Yet
it was as if they hadn’t eaten all day when
they arrived at this unique intersection of
Southeast Asian cuisine and the American
South, where chef Rob Newton served bún
cha-style pork sirloin chops. The boneless
chops were marinated in an aromatic
Vietnamese sauce for two days, then
seasoned to taste and grilled. Then the
tender chops were sliced and served on
pressed rice noodles with a salad of grilled
baby collard greens and cucumber. Empty
plates were cleared, Newton and his team
were thanked and praised, and most in the
group declared it best to eschew the bus
and walk the few blocks to the ninth and
last stop on the tour.