14 The NaTioNal CuliNary review • JaNuary 2018
sustainaBiLity underutilized? lesser-known?
Despite being located on the coast of one of the country’s most fertile fishing regions, Derek Wagner, chef/owner of
Nick’s on Broadway, Providence, Rhode Island, couldn’t buy
Rhode Island-caught seafood nine years ago. The chef learned
this counterintuitive tidbit when he tried to pivot his protein
sourcing more toward local.
“When it came to fruits and vegetables, I was getting
incredible information about sourcing, origin and the people
growing it. But then I’d call my seafood purveyor to ask where the
fish I was getting came from, and he couldn’t answer,” Wagner
says. “I remember getting this beautiful salmon, and asking,
Whatever you call it,
find a place on the
menu for “trash fish.”
By Maggie Hennessy