“Making a milkshake is less work than making a plated
dessert and adds a new dimension to dessert menu options, while
still delivering many layers of flavor and satisfaction,” Gray says.
Ernesto Uchimura, executive chef/partner at Plan Check Kitchen
+ Bar, Los Angeles, spins Market Milkshakes based on what kind
of fresh produce he finds at the local farmers market. This summer
he used boysenberries, strawberries, blueberries, edible flowers,
blood oranges and other fruit. In the fall and winter months, apples,
pears and stone fruits are used, as well as citrus.
His creations include the Strawberry Rose, with market
strawberries, crystallized rose sugar and vanilla bean whipped
cream; Market Blueberry Milkshake #1, with yuzu ice cream,
blueberries and blood orange whipped cream; and Summer Berry
& Blossoms, with edible flowers and mixed summer berries.
“Flavor is extremely important in shakes, but so is texture,
so you need to make sure you have the right ratio of ice cream
to milk or beer and other ingredients,” Uchimura says. “You
don’t want one ingredient to take center stage. Shakes need to
be homogenous, and they need to be thick.”
He also spins a PCH Golden Milk Porter Float with Santa
Monica Brew Works PCH porter and vanilla bean ice cream,
which pairs well with the beer’s creamy profile. Using a hoppy,
bitter beer works well with ice cream, too, because it counteracts
the sweetness of the ice cream.
“Beer floats are the perfect ending to a meal for a person
who really likes beer,” Uchimura says.
“Any type of dessert can be dressed up to be a fine-dining
dessert like the milkshake, depending on the approach taken,”
says Larry Queen, pastry chef at Brabo, Alexandria, Virginia.
He serves a 3-ounce butterscotch creme brulee paired with a
1-ounce bourbon/salt smoked shake. To help play up the vanilla
and smokiness in the bourbon, he places creme anglaise in an
ice bath and smokes it over applewood. Four Roses bourbon,
the smoked creme anglaise and salt are combined and made
into ice cream with a Pacojet. Salt is added to balance the
sweetness, Queen says.
The shake is garnished with spiced whipped cream (cinnamon,
nutmeg and ginger) and almond brittle, with brown butter shortbread cookies on the side. The creme brulee is garnished with
dark-chocolate espuma and spun sugar.
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