Lately, Tesar has taken to cryovacing bone marrow overnight to accelerate and intensify the
flavoring process. He combines the bone marrow, olive oil, salt, pepper and herbs, and when it’s
done, puts the mixture in the food processor with bacon fat and whips it, which gives a uniform
texture and flavor.
The Blue Ribbon dish also inspired A.J. McCloud, culinary director, Eureka! Restaurant Group,
Hawthorne, California. He used to go to the fine-dining restaurant after work and order the bone
marrow dish and a beer. From that experience, his culinary training and time spent in Europe, he
developed a lasting appreciation for the decadent flavor bone marrow adds to sauces and other items.
But McCloud concluded that bone marrow’s flavor shouldn’t be limited to fine dining or a
steakhouse. He decided to bring it down to burger level and developed the Bone Marrow Burger—
a burger topped with a disc of combined porcini mushrooms, roasted garlic, butter, bone marrow,
salt, pepper, thyme and breadcrumbs. (He puts the mixture on plastic wrap, rolls it into a tube
shape and cuts into discs.) Once the burger is cooked, he tops it with the disc and places it under
the broiler to melt the top, which delivers a crispy element. He serves it on a bun that has mustard
aioli, onion and oven-roasted tomato on the bottom half. He doesn’t put other condiments on the
burger or the bun top. “The top of the bun soaks up the rich, juicy goodness,” he says.
Because the Bone Marrow Burger is expensive and time-consuming, the restaurant only
makes limited amounts each day. “We don’t like to freeze things. We’ll make 16 to 20 portions
a day, and when we’re out, we’re out,” McCloud says.
Many restaurants that serve bone marrow find plenty to do with beef and veal. From there,
they expand to other animals. Ward with Gunshow notes that beef marrow is fattier, with a more
robust flavor, while veal is more subtle and has less umami flavor.
If umami is the goal, Ward says smoking the bones intensifies the effect. In that case, he suggests
placing canoe-cut bones with the marrow intact in the smoker and warming just to the point where
the marrow turns jelly-like. “As the fat starts to render, it absorbs the smoke,” he says. Remove
the marrow from the bone and use it as compound butter, which would go well with mushrooms
that have been sauteed in oil and butter and finished with marrow in a pan deglazed with sherry or
Madeira and fresh herbs.
above lef T: roasted bone marrow, short-rib gravy and housemade giardiniera at Travelle
above riGh T, ToP: bone marrow burger at eureka! above riGh T, bo TToM: bone marrow soup
opposite: langoustine and bone marrow at patina
boNe Marrow oN
•;At Chicago’s Michelin-starred
Sepia, chef Andrew Zimmerman
incorporates bone marrow into
dumpling dough, which he stuffs
with braised oxtail and tops with
micro greens and oxtail consommé.
•;James Beard Award-winning chef
Tory Miller of Madison, Wisconsin,
farm-to-table concept Graze serves
bone marrow on the half bone
topped with pickled vegetable
giardiniera and shallot marmalade.
Guests scoop out the marrow with
housemade grilled focaccia.
•;Chef/restauranteur Michael Kornick
of Chicago’s mk The Restaurant
serves a bar-bite slider slathered
with bone marrow butter and topped
with a bison burger on focaccia.
•;At Patina in downtown Los Angeles’
Walt Disney Concert Hall, executive
chef Paul Lee has several bone
marrow dishes on the menu,
including butter-poached lobster
with bone marrow mousse, shimeji
mushroom and a salsify/lobster nage.
He uses blanched bone marrow in a
langoustine and bone marrow dish in
which he layers pieces of langoustine
and the marrow with black trumpet
mushrooms, rye discs and chicken
jus. For a beef tenderloin entree, he
created a bone marrow crust featuring
shishito pepper, horseradish mustard,
bearnaise beignet potato fondant and