National Culinary Review

Latino restaurant and lounge. Examples of skewers there, all grilled over a wood-burning grill, include white Florida shrimp topped with aji amarillo coulis consisting of habañero chili, garlic, Spanish onion, yellow bell pepper, turmeric, white vinegar, salt and pepper, as well as layered chicken thigh strips and scallion tops, topped with chipotle aioli.

“We are in the process of adding accompaniments for them, but they often are ordered with various sides, such as roasted mushrooms, Brussels sprouts, chorizo hash, tropical salad or deviled eggs,” says Miguel Aguilar, Wynwood chef.

Influences from another part of the world are increasingly showing up in the U.S. in the form of Japanese robata grill restaurants, based on the tradition in Japanese homes of grilling skewered foods in hearth fires with skewers standing upright in sand. Purists use Japanese charcoal instead of gas, but American restaurants often make adaptations.

“The 2½- to 3½-oz. skewers are a lighter way of eating and an accessible price point in today’s economy,” says Hugh Moran, executive chef of POD, a Philadelphia restaurant owned by STARR Restaurants that includes a robata grill menu. Skewers are priced from $6 for vegetables to $18 for king crab.

POD’s grill is gas-assisted, but does use the Japanese charcoal in baskets under the grate, Moran says. The grill heats up to 1200ºF. There are usually between nine and 12 skewer choices available daily. A few choices are prawns with spiced yuzu butter, flavored with a Japanese citrus juice; jumbo asparagus with tare, a sweet and salty soy glaze, and bonito, dried fish flakes; and king trumpet mushroom with ginger shiso butter, flavored with an herb that has mint and curry characteristics.

“Customers may get two or three for a first course or an entree,” Moran says, adding that one order is two skewers containing three-to-four pieces of food. “Many eat family-style. It makes the dining experience more fun.” Kebabs also are common in Bombay and central India, says Sunil Kumar, executive chef of Bombay Spice in Chicago, which also has an outpost in Phoenix. He uses

TOP: At POD, these prawns are grilled over the hot robata grill, then sprinkled with chile powder and brushed with yuzu butter.

BOTTOM: Wynwood Kitchen & Bar’s skewers of layered chicken thigh strips/scallion tops with chipotle aioli.

authentic recipes for Seekh kebab with lamb or chicken with red onions, green and red bell peppers, ginger, garlic, cilantro, lime and lemon juices and a spice mix containing roasted coriander seed, cumin seed, garam masala, paprika, turmeric and dry mango power.

CAROLYN WALKUP IS A CHICAGO-BASED FREELANCE WRITER WHO HAS LONG SPECIALIZED IN FOOD AND FOODSERVICE.

PHOTO CREDIT: Top, Crystal Wang; bottom, Andrew Meade

Meatless skewers are another option at restaurants that have a demand for them. Celebrity chef José Andrés has a low-calorie tomato/watermelon skewer at The Bazaar by José Andrés in Beverly Hills. Plum tomatoes and watermelon bites are dressed with a reduction of sherry vinegar and lemon juice. The tapas restaurant serves five of these skewers per serving.