ancient
FRUIT
Olive production—and the resulting olive oil—is a young
industry in the U.S. poised for growth.
By Clare Leschin-Hoar
THOM CURRY has that slightly
weathered face you’d expect to find in a
sun-drenched California farmer. His olive
ranch sits on the outskirts of Temecula in
Southern California, amid soft desert hills,
where he grows romantic-sounding Italian
varieties such as Leccino and Maurino.
one of a growing number of Californians
turning an eye toward this ancient fruit.
While less than 1% of all the olive oil
consumed in the U.S. is domestically
produced, nearly all of that comes from
California growers, although states such
as Texas and Georgia are dipping a toe in
the water.
Temecula Olive Oil Company
Though California’s olive industry has been
around for decades, its roots extend back
to groves originally planted by Franciscan
missionaries who made their way up the
coast. The industry is still considered
In a broad-brimmed hat and dusty boots,
Curry walks us through the estate’s five
acres of silvery-leafed olive trees loaded
with ripe fruit. (He’s got another 26 acres of
olive trees elsewhere.) Pale-green netting is
laid flat under trees where workers surround
the trunk—a few are nestled tightly in the
tree’s branches, hand-harvesting plump dark
olives. Bite into one at this stage, and you’ll
only get a mouthful of lingering bitterness.
“People never do that twice,” Curry says.
We believe him.
HOMEGROWN
Curry started growing olives in this spot
more than seven years ago, and is just
Temecula Olive Oil Company
These silvery-leafed olive trees at Temecula Olive Oil Company are part of California’s growing
olive industry.
