Castle on the Hudson
Guests at Castle on the Hudson who dine at Equus enjoy dishes that incorporate
produce, artisanal cheeses, meats and poultry drawn from the Hudson Valley’s bounty.
UMBRELLA PROTECTION
For David Haviland, executive chef at
Castle on the Hudson in Tarrytown, N. Y., it
is the constant change and the opportunity
to learn so many facets of the culinary
field that makes working in a hotel setting
so rewarding. A graduate of The Culinary
Institute of America, Hyde Park, N. Y., he
was initially attracted to hotel kitchens by
the diversity of experience that hotels offer.
From the beginning, the two agreed that
to be successful, the restaurant had to
establish its own identity. “Initially, we did not
promote that we were part of the Planters
Inn,” says Carter. “Now, though, it is to our
advantage to co-promote. There is a synergy
between the hotel and the restaurant, and
yet we are uniquely different.”
Carter’s spanking-fresh small plate of
lobster, crab, tomato and spinach salad
with perfectly fried green tomatoes.
Carter, though, is very aware of adapting
to the times. “We are, at the moment,
evaluating the caloric content of some
of the dishes,” he says. “We listen to our
guests. Responding to their wishes is
essential to long-term success. My menu is
not about my ego. It is there for the guests.
My goal is for the guest to walk out happy.”
“I am not a person who wants to move
from job to job,” Haviland says. “Hotels
give chefs like me the opportunity to work
through all the culinary areas. One day I
can be preparing a special wine-tasting
dinner, and the next, or even the same day,
I can be overseeing a large function. In
general, we offer so many varied services
that employees will gain more experience
and become more marketable if and when
they decide to move on.”
For Carter, being based in a hotel
environment means more than the
advantages of shared maintenance, a
cross-utilization of staff and a core of built-
in clients. “I like the idea of ‘tucking our
guests in at night’ after a great dinner, and
then have them awaken in the morning
with a great breakfast,” he says. “It is truly
a hospitality home run, which is what this
business is about, ultimately.”
Peninsula Grill feels like a special-
occasion place—well-spaced tables,
comfortable seats, crisp linen and an
entrance through the champagne bar,
where you can pause to sip a glass of
Veuve Clicquot and sample oysters, or
Somewhat to his chagrin, though, it turns
out that a bespoke coconut cake is one of
the restaurant’s best marketing tools. A riff
on Carter’s grandmother’s recipe, this is
not only the cake for most of Charleston’s
brides, but, at customer request, it is
shipped around the world. “Last year, we
sold 30,000 slices—that is 2,500 cakes,”
Carter says. “It is frustrating to be known for
a cake when all of our efforts are so much
more creative. But it is an incredible media
attention-getter, and the number of people
who are crazy over the cake is staggering.”
What Haviland refers to as an “umbrella
effect”—help with marketing, budgets,
staffing, health and retirement benefits,
and promotion—add to the attraction of
hotel work.
Castle on the Hudson is a destination
hotel, and most guests come intending to
eat at least one meal at Equus, the hotel’s
restaurant. “We are in the Hudson Valley,
with an increasing bounty of produce, artisan
cheese, meats and poultry,” Haviland says.
“We have always been conscious of our
location, but now the general public is, as
well. And we notice that our guests are
very aware of and interested in our culinary
programs, which only enhances the hotel.”
