National Culinary Review

says. “Some dishes require saffron. Not only does it enhance the flavor, but it gives value. We use it in seafood paella as one of the key flavors. It’s king.” At Bongos, Paella Grande ($64, serves two) takes about 30 minutes to prepare from generous amounts of Caribbean lobster, clams, mussels, medium-size shrimp, calamari, chorizo sausage and chicken.

Flores is also a master of all things dessert. In fact, he was the pastry chef behind creations at Douglas Rodriguez venues, and is author of Dulce: Desserts in the Latin-American Tradition (Rizzoli, 2010). Because chocolate is both a flavor and an ingredient that knows no season—and because summertime is fun time—Flores’ recipe, Croquetas de Chocolate (five bitesize pieces, $9), is a perfect fit. Indeed, some guests may want it as the main course.

Michelle Bernstein’s rabo encendido with trofie pasta and mascarpone wows diners at Sra. Martinez.

Incorporating 58% Venezuelan semisweet chocolate, Flores forms croquetas and coats with cornflakes and shredded coconut. “It’s like ganache,” he says. “They’re deep-fried to order in vegetable oil, so the chocolate inside gets molten. We serve them hot with Cuban-style coffee sauce for the best experience.”

SRA.’S PRODUCT-PURITY STAND Both Plotczyk and Flores deal with local farmers, growers and fishermen, not only to get the freshest products and, therefore, the best flavors, but also to support sustainable efforts. Michelle Bernstein, chef/owner of South Miami’s 62-seat Michy’s and 90-seat Sra. Martinez in Miami’s Design District, adds to that locally grown mandate one for purity of product.

Bernstein wants to know what’s in—or has been added to—the fish, beef, etc., that she

Joseluis Flores’ Croquetas de Chocolate dessert, made with Venezuelan semisweet chocolate, is served hot with Cuban-style coffee at Bongos Cuban Café.

purchases. “We as chefs have to go back to our purveyors and question them. Why was that protein so salty? I’m out of the picture—I won’t buy from them—if they add chemical agents,” she says. “Today, people are more concerned with what they’re ingesting. I can help guests make the right menu decisions for their diet, whether it’s gluten-free, diabetic, avoiding food allergens or whatever they need, since everything is prepared à la minute.” Bernstein, author of Cuisine à Latina: Fresh Tastes and a World of Flavors from Michy’s Miami Kitchen (Houghton Mifflin, 2008), is all about Latin-inspired flavors. Aiming to have everything constantly changing on the menu, she brings her Latina and Jewish sensibilities to the endeavor. Her mother is a fifth-generation Argentinian Jew, and Bernstein’s roots are firmly planted in Miami soil; the multiple influences are subtly evident in her kitchen.

The National Culinary Review | May 2011

Gio Alma

“A local fisherman recently brought us Florida octopus—the most amazing we’ve ever tasted,” she says. For the spring and summer menu, she’ll do a simple grill of fresh octopus with fresh English peas, mint and toasted garlic salad, with a shave of homegrown French breakfast radishes ($12-$14, dinner, tapas-size portions).