Playing with culinary tradition, Plotczyk
and his staff will present their own take on
cochinita pibil, the traditional Yucatan pit-cooked pork, but in this case, without pork
or pit. “We do pescado pibil, or, as it says
on the menu, Butterflied Red Snapper,”
Plotczyk says. “We use red snapper
marinated in citrus juices plus achiote
served with habanero-marinated onions
with a salsa molcajete (roasted tomatillos,
garlic and serrano chiles, lime juice,
cilantro). These ingredients are combined
tableside to form a purée that’s smooth yet
chunky at the same time. The server places
it on the plate to the side of the fish.”
Robert Gonzalez Jr.
This classic arroz con pollo satisfies those at Bongos Cuban Café who favor dishes
and flavors typical of Cuban cuisine.
SURPRISE OF HUITLACOCHE
One of Plotczyk’s flavor favorites—in
addition to chile pasilla de Oaxaca, with
its distinctive smoky flavor and high price
tag—is huitlacoche, or corn fungus. “It’s
definitely an ingredient that surprises
guests. Some call it ‘the truffle of Mexico,’
and it does taste like mushroom,” he says.
“We cook it with roasted poblano chiles,
mint and roasted corn kernels. We briefly
sauté the ingredients, and use it in a
quesadilla with Chihuahua cheese, similar
to Monterey Jack with a salty, pungent
flavor when melted.”
Greenwich, Conn., opened 210-seat
Bongos Cuban Café at the Seminole
Hard Rock Hotel & Casino in Hollywood,
Fla. Although 40% of menu items can
trace their origins to Cuban cuisine, and
are pretty much the same in each of
the chain’s five locations, this newest
venue features a fusion of modern Latin
flavors in the menu’s remaining 60%,
notes executive chef Joseluis Flores, a
native of Mexico City. “I try to avoid too
much Mexican on the menu,” he says. “I
do Argentinian, Colombian, Venezuelan,
Brazilian, etc.”
grass and ginger, bringing it all to a second
boil to blend the flavors. The seafood—
previously cut into small pieces and
marinated in lemon/lime juice—is combined
with the cooled coconut sauce and herbs
and served in a whole young coconut with
the top removed. Because the coconut
meat is tender, it can be enjoyed along with
the seafood.
Some guests at Bongos Cuban Café are
seeking the typical dishes and flavors of
Cuban cuisine, and Arroz Con Pollo ($15,
lunch, $22, dinner), the classic yellow
rice and chicken dish, can fill the bill no
matter the season. However, Flores adds
his signature with a drizzle of sun-dried
tomato vinaigrette on top of the chicken
and on the plate.
A recent trip to Morelia, Mexico, inspired
Plotczyk to consider ways to incorporate
macadamia nuts into some of his recipes.
“There they use a ton of locally grown
macadamia nuts as fillings for quesadillas
and in salad dressings. We’re working on
it,” he says.
Flores finds that his guests hail from Cuba
and other Latino cultures, but many are
simply Americans. To serve this varied
clientele, he’s particularly pleased with
his recipe for Ceviche Misto ($14 lunch,
$16 dinner), a combo of seafood that
typically includes shrimp, calamari, grouper
and octopus. He knows it’s a fit for
summertime menus, as well.
“It’s all about the flavor,” he contends.
“People tend to eat the rice with slices of
tomato, so this vinaigrette is a nice flavor
and texture to match with the dish.”
CEVICHE ’N’ COCONUT
Early in December 2010, Gloria and Emilio
Estefan and cb5 Restaurant Group LLC,
“I make a sauce of coconut with an infusion
of fresh ginger, lemon grass, cilantro, fresh
jalapeños—all brunoise,” Flores explains.
To prepare the sauce, he boils coconut milk
and coconut water, then adds the lemon
KING SAFFRON
Cilantro, oregano, cumin—all are spices
prevalent in many Latino dishes, and
certainly make their appearance in Cuban
recipes. Add saffron to the list, too, Flores
www.acfchefs.org