National Culinary Review - November/December 2010

FLAVORS

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In the same way, yogurt can be used as a dip.

Consider whipping it into hummus for a nice consistency, suggests Tim Reardon, culinary director for The Food Group, New York, a marketing/advertising agency that provides culinary support for clients, including The Dannon Co. Inc., White Plains, N. Y.

MAKE A NICE SPREAD

Think of how mayonnaise-based spreads could be updated with yogurt, including the use of yogurt cheese. It’s something that fits with the movement in America to make calories count, says celebrity chef Jon Ashton, who also is a public advocate for ending childhood obesity.

Tim Reardon, Culinary Director The Food Group New York Yield: 12 ( 3 oz.) skewers, 6 portions Grilled Rosemary Chicken Skewers with Roasted Garlic and Lemon Method: Combine yogurt, garlic paste, lemon juice, lemon zest, olive oil, coriander, chili flakes, chopped rosemary and salt and pepper in mixing bowl; mix well. Pour over cubed chicken breast; marinate at least 20 minutes or up to 3 hours. To assemble skewers, with scissors, trim rosemary sprigs into 8-inch lengths. (Trim away top part of sprigs; reserve for future use.) Remove all but top 1-inch rosemary leaves. Skewer 5-6 pieces chicken from bottom of sprig up to remaining rosemary leaves. Season skewers with salt and pepper. Grill over medium heat (keep rosemary leaves away from direct flame to avoid burning).

1½ cups plain yogurt ¼ cup roasted garlic paste

3 T. lemon juice

1 t. lemon zest ¼ cup olive oil

1 t. ground coriander ½ t. chili flakes

1 T. chopped rosemary Salt and pepper, to taste

3½ lbs. chicken breast, 1-inch cubes

12 large rosemary sprigs, soaked in cold water

Ashton makes yogurt cheese as the base for sandwich and panini spreads or to top a baked potato, and notes how simple it is to make. He lines a bowl with cheesecloth, pours in yogurt, pulls up and ties the sides of the cloth and hangs it over a bowl in the refrigerator overnight to drip dry. If he needs the cheese faster, he adds a weight to the top of it. The result is yogurt cheese as a foundation to add such flavors as garlic, mint, cumin or cilantro.

Recipe developed on behalf of The Dannon Co. Inc., White Plains, N. Y.

4Reardon also makes yogurt cheese, and advises that the longer it drains, the firmer it becomes. “The end result is a creamy, spreadable cheese, similar to goat cheese or cream cheese in consistency,” he says. “It can be a base for cake icing. I whip it with powdered sugar and vanilla to make a nice icing or with a little lemon for a lemony icing.”

MEET YOUR NEW TENDERIZER There’s a lesson to learn from the Indian favorite, tandoori chicken, which uses yogurt as a marinade base. Ashton points out that many chefs stick to the French tradition of marinating with wine, but the lactic acid in yogurt combines with meat to help break down the protein and tenderize. In his native England, he says the national dish of fish and chips has been replaced with chicken tikka masala, which is popular for its yogurt marinade.

Consider applications for aïoli and how yogurt could be the stand-in ingredient. You could make a roasted garlic aïoli with yogurt as a sandwich spread, Schweizer says. “It becomes a little healthier and lighter than mayonnaise.”

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When used as a marinade, make sure the yogurt hasn’t been heat-treated, which will inactivate the enzymes that are important for breaking down protein, Schweizer says. He suggests using yogurt as a marinade in place of buttermilk for swordfish, shark or any other seafood that is tough by nature.

EXPERIMENT WITH SAUCES

Don’t limit yogurt use to cold preparations. You can take the marinade and turn it into a sauce. When heating it for a braise or sauce, Reardon suggests using a full-fat