AT THE BAR
Dark
Side
COME to the
More beer drinkers are choosing dark brews.
By Kathryn Kjarsgaard
A BEER revolution is underway.
People are choosing darker brews with
more complex flavors and aromas than
their pale counterparts. After a long run
of popularity, lighter beers are taking
a back seat to darker brews with more
sophisticated flavors, aromas and food-pairing possibilities.
weren’t consistent on the fire, so the grain
would brown a little too much. The color of
beer directly relates to the grain that’s used
and how long it’s fired and roasted.
“You can see a difference in the color and
texture of each. Darker beers are more
viscous and heavy on the palate and light
beers more refreshing and crisp.”
Bart Vandaele, chef/owner of Belga Café
in Washington, D.C., says he’s recently
noticed guests trying to find “the red
wine of beers. The American palate is
drawn to those hoppy, sweeter tastes of
dark brews. Also, many people enjoy the
fact that many of the darker brews have a
higher alcohol content.”
The movement actually brings Americans
back to the style of beer that was
ubiquitous in the early days of the U.S.,
according to Albert Schmid, CEC, CCE,
CCA, chair of the beverage management,
hotel/restaurant management and
hospitality management programs at
Sullivan University, Louisville, Ky. “The color
of beer has changed from the time of the
Pilgrims to the current day,” says Schmid.
HIGH ON DARK BREWS
Matthew Pera, co-owner with chef Tom
Condron of The Liberty in Charlotte,
N.C., also is witnessing the movement
toward darker brews. “With the beer
nerds, everybody started off with hoppy
beers—the IPAs [India Pale Ales] and
double IPAs,” says Pera. “Then they got
tired of that and moved on to stouts and
porters, which are more sophisticated
taste-wise. It’s like when you first drink
wine. You start with a giant Zinfandel and
big Cabs, but end up with a Pinot Noir at
the end of the day.”
Women also are increasingly open to
dark brews, says Christina Perozzi, co-
executive editor with Hallie Beaune of
Los Angeles-based thebeerchicks.com.
“Women are noticing dark beers because
of their chocolaty, nutty and coffee
qualities,” she says. “They love them when
they taste them.”
He says the German immigration of 1880
was significant, because immigrants brought
technology with them that made it possible to
consistently make a lighter colored beer. “Up
to that point, when roasting the grain, they
Overall, she says, the message is finally
getting through to people that dark beer
is not bitter and heavy. “Craft brewers are
leading the way in making beer in different
flavor profiles. The color of the beer, not
the flavor, tells you to what degree the
ingredients are roasted. The education
