The National Culinary Review

FLAVORS

with acclaimed regional chefs at each stop. Scott Pampuch, chef/owner of Corner Table, Minneapolis, did a dinner with Denevan when he came to town two years ago, and was inspired to put together his own version of moveable feasts, Tour de Farm, in 2009.

“That first experience was so beautiful,” says Pampuch, “so fundamental to my mission and the concept behind the restaurant, that I asked myself why we couldn’t do a local version that would complement, not compete with, Jim’s efforts.” His first foray—five dinners at $85 per person including beer and wine, each seating 100 and spotlighting a different chef—sold out in two weeks. It was executed on a shoestring budget with much help and all beverages donated.

“We cost it out and realized we couldn’t do it for less than $150 per ticket,” says Pampuch. “I know some people will be unhappy and call us elitist. To counter that, in addition to four dinners this season, we’ve scheduled two more-casual, family friendly farm picnics. Prices are $50 for adults, $15 for children 6-12, and younger kids are free.” He has also scheduled a New Year’s Eve dinner in a barn on a sheep farm.

Sunday suppers. That’s the traditional time for farmers to relax,” Pampuch says.

He has a waiting list of farmers and restaurants that want to participate.

DINNERS AT THE FARM™, CONNECTICUT This summer, Jonathan Rapp, chef/owner of River Tavern in Chester, Conn., hosts an ambitious 12 dinners. To manage costs and maximize efficiency, they’ll be held over four weekends, on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays, at two farms. Based on past attendance, he expects to serve 125- 150 per night. A portion of the proceeds benefits local nonprofit agricultural and community organizations.

“This is our fourth year for Dinners at the Farm™,” says Rapp, who launched the project with a farmer and gourmet-market owner (who’s also a chef). “It’s been nothing but positive for all participants. We’ve been able to donate thousands and thousands of dollars to our chosen causes, and I’ve gotten media coverage that keeps the restaurant in the public’s mind.” A vintage fire truck was retrofitted as a mobile kitchen, with a stove in a flatbed at the back.

TIPS FOR PREPPING
IN A PASTURE

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Rapp does all the cooking, assisted by a tight team of six sous chefs and wait staff from the restaurant’s ranks, plus two volunteers from the groups that receive funds. A multiple-course format allows him to showcase seasonal bounty. Since Rapp no longer mans the line day to day at River Tavern, the restaurant runs smoothly in his absence.

“These dinners allow me to be a chef again in the purist kind of way,” he notes. “I’m as

The National Culinary Review | June 2010

Unlike Outstanding in the Field’s signature single long communal table, Tour de Farm mimics a basement social, familiar to guests, arranging banquet tables in rows. Some courses are plated, some served family style. All are held on Sundays at 4 p.m. “The idea is that we’re gathering for