sponge, then we freeze the ice cream the
rest of the way. Once it is firmed up, we
release the vacuum and open it up. It has a
sliceable texture and looks like a massive
amount of ice cream, but it is actually a
normal portion. It’s something no one else
is doing.”
Stupak borrowed the technique from
wd~ 50 owner/chef Wylie Dufresne’s
aerated foie gras terrine, which also looks
like a sponge. “I realized this technique
is highly adaptable—we’re now working
on a custard,” Stupak says. “We are even
experimenting with pure water to create
large bubbles of ice for a dessert. It will be
like eating snow.”
She developed a coconut rose foam that,
with flakes of gold, tops the Bollywood
cocktail she created for the Fairmont Bab
Al Bahr hotel in Abu Dhabi. Her gelees,
or edible cocktails, are one of the more
low-tech drinks she creates, but they are
currently all the rage, she says. She has
created a number of them—such as the
Shiso Fresh Gelee and Pomegranate
Rosemary Cocktail Gelee—for The Ritz-
Carlton and other clients.
WINTR
The Perlini Carbonated Cocktail System
by Perlage produces sparkling cocktails
by infusing all the components of the
beverage with effervescence.
Molecular mixology
Casey turns to numerous pieces of
modern equipment to create specialty
drinks for her clients all over the world.
She uses iSi whipped-cream canisters to
create foams for cocktails. “I did a lot of
research on foams, and tested recipes.
Many foams only last a day, but mine can
last five days if made perfectly,” she says.
“It’s basically an upgraded jello shot,”
Casey says. “It’s done beautifully, with
gelatin leaves, fresh fruit purées, fruit
juices and high-end spirits. I use a two-inch half hotel pan lined with plastic wrap
and a little vegetable spray, so the gelees
are easily releasable. You mix the cocktail,
shake it, and then the gelee sits on top.
You drink the cocktail and eat the gelee.”
Casey raves about two machines
developed by Seattle-based Perlage
Systems, Inc. The Perlage Champagne
Preservation System helps restaurants
preserve opened bottles of champagne
or sparkling wine by employing carbon
dioxide to pressurize the opened bottles.
The new Perlini Carbonated Cocktail
System, which will be available later
this year, creates sparkling cocktails. It
functions like a traditional cocktail shaker,
except the shaker itself is a pressure
vessel that vigorously carbonates drinks
with carbon dioxide.
Another avant-garde creation by Casey is
the Cotton Candy Cocktail. “Cotton candy
machines are fairly affordable, priced at
around $1,000. We make a cocktail, then
strain it over cotton candy, which dissolves.
We’ve also made a Mocha Panna Cotta
cocktail topped with cotton candy, like the
foam on top of an espresso drink.”
One area Casey sees heating up is
innovation in ice cubes. Erie, Pa.-based
Kold-Draft commercial ice machines
creates 1-inch cubes ideal for cocktails,
and are the hip ice machine right now, she
says. “People like these cubes because
they chill cocktails very cold, don’t dilute
them and keep the drinks very clear. There’s
an ice revolution going on right now.”
Kathy Casey created this Pomegranate
Rosemary Cocktail Gelee for Monin
Gourmet Flavorings.
Kathryn Kjarsgaard is a freelance food
writer based in Forest Park, Ill.